If you’ve ever found yourself with more tomatoes than you know what to do with, homemade ketchup is a perfect way to put them to good use. Not only does it taste way better than anything from the store, but when you can it in a water bath canner, you’ll have a shelf-stable stash that lasts all year.

Homemade ketchup is easier than you might think. The acidity from the tomatoes (plus a little vinegar) makes it safe for water bath canning, and once you’ve sealed those jars, you’ve got a homemade condiment ready whenever you need it. No weird preservatives, no excess sugar—just real, rich tomato flavor.

Let’s walk through the process step by step, from simmering your ketchup down, the recipe will be next, to that perfect consistency to sealing it up for long-term storage.

Water bath canning ketchup is a straightforward process, but it does require careful attention to acidity and processing times to ensure a safe, shelf-stable product. Here’s how to do it:

What You’ll Need:

• Prepared ketchup (fully cooked and hot). Recipe is listed below.

• Mason jars (pint or half-pint) with new lids and rings

• Water bath canner (or a large pot with a rack)

• Jar lifter & canning funnel

• Clean cloths

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Prep Your Jars & Canner

• Wash jars, lids, and rings in hot, soapy water. Rinse well.

• Keep the jars hot by placing them in a pot of simmering water or in the dishwasher on a heated cycle.

• Fill your water bath canner halfway with water and bring it to a simmer while you prepare the ketchup.

2. Fill the Jars

• Using a funnel, ladle the hot ketchup into the hot jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.

• Run a bubble remover or knife along the inside of the jar to release any trapped air.

• Wipe the rims with a clean, damp cloth to remove any residue.

• Place the lids on the jars and screw the rings on finger-tight (not too tight—air needs to escape during processing).

3. Process in the Water Bath

• Place jars into the canner using a jar lifter, ensuring they are fully submerged with at least 1-2 inches of water above the lids.

• Bring the water to a rolling boil, then start the processing time:

• Pints and half-pints: 15 minutes (adjust for altitude if needed—add 5 minutes for 1,000-3,000 feet, 10 minutes for 3,001-6,000 feet, etc.).

• Once time is up, turn off the heat and let jars sit in the water for 5 minutes before removing.

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4. Cool & Store Your Homemade Ketchup

• Carefully lift jars out and place them on a towel-lined countertop.

• Let them cool undisturbed for 12-24 hours.

• Check seals: The lids should be concave and not pop when pressed.

• Store sealed jars in a cool, dark place for up to one year. Any unsealed jars should go in the fridge and be used within a few weeks.

And that’s it! You’ve now got homemade, shelf-stable ketchup ready for burgers, fries, and everything in between.

Homemade Canned Ketchup

Course: homemaking

Prep time

32

minutes

Cooking time

4

hours 

A delicious homemade canned ketchup, perfect to use up all of those garden tomatoes.

Ingredients

• 5 lbs fresh or frozen and thawed tomatoes – cored and seeded

• 1 onion

• 3 cloves of fresh garlic

• 1/3 – 1/2 cup granulated sugar

• 3/4 cup white vinegar

• 3/4 tbsp salt

• 1/2 tsp cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp paprika

• 1/4 tsp celery seed

• 1/4 tsp cloves

• 1/8 tsp ground mustard

• 1/8 cayenne pepper powder

• 1/8 black pepper

Directions

• Remove cores and seeds from tomatoes. You’ll need 5lbs after removing.
• Place tomatoes in large pot, add onion and garlic. Simmer for 1-2 hours stirring occasionally.
• Drain as much liquid as possible. Place the tomatoes, onion & garlic in a high speed blender until smooth as possible.
• This step is optional, but I find it gives the perfect smooth ketchup texture. Pour the blended mixture through a mesh strainer over a pot. Use a spatula to push the mixture through.
• Add the remaining ingredients to the pot and bring to a boil for a few minutes.
• After a few minutes, reduce to a simmer and stir occasionally for 2-3 hours, or until the desired thickness is reached.
• Return the ketchup to the blender and give the mixture a final blend to ensure maximum smoothness.
• Pour into half-pint or pint jars, wiping the rim with vinegar.
• Place lids and rings on finger tight.
• Process in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. See note to adjust for altitude.

Notes

• Pints and half-pints: 15 minutes (adjust for altitude if needed—add 5 minutes for 1,000-3,000 feet, 10 minutes for 3,001-6,000 feet, etc.).

The post Homemade Canned Ketchup appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

From seed (or bare roots) to harvest!

Strawberries are one of the most beloved fruits worldwide, prized for their sweet flavor, vibrant color, and impressive nutritional profile. Packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, and fiber, these juicy berries not only taste delicious but also offer a range of health benefits, from boosting immunity to supporting heart health. My strawberry patch is my pride and joy so I’ve created a basic guide to growing strawberries, whether you are starting from seed or planting bare roots!

Growing Strawberries From Seed

TIP: Strawberries are hardy perennials. They do become less productive after a few years of producing, so be sure to propagate runners for a new generation of strawberries each year.

Starting strawberries from seed can be a bit tricky so patience is key.

1. Choosing Strawberry Seeds

• You can grow strawberries from seeds collected from existing fruit, but it’s better to buy seeds from a reputable source to ensure good germination and quality. Seeds Now is one of my favourite and reputable source of seeds. Click here to check them out!

• Alpine strawberries are a popular choice for growing from seed since they germinate more reliably than larger-fruited varieties.

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2. Prepping The Seeds (Cold Stratification)

Strawberry seeds need cold stratification to mimic winter conditions and encourage germination:

• Place the seeds in a damp paper towel or small container.

• Seal them in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 3–4 weeks. This helps to break dormancy.

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3. Sowing the Seeds

• After stratification, fill a seed tray or small pots with a light seed-starting mix (a mix of peat and vermiculite works well or a quality mix from the garden centre will do).

• Lightly press the seeds into the surface of the soil without covering them — strawberry seeds need light to germinate.

• Mist the surface with water to keep it moist but not soggy.

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4. Germination

• Keep the tray or pots in a warm place, ideally 65–75°F (18–24°C).

• Use a humidity dome or plastic wrap to keep moisture levels high.

• Germination can take anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks — patience is key!

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5. Caring for Seedlings

• Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place them under grow lights or in a sunny window.

• Keep the soil moist but avoid overwatering, as strawberry seedlings are prone to damping off.

• Once they have a couple of sets of true leaves, thin them out or transplant them into larger pots.

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6. Hardening Off and Transplanting

• After the last frost, start hardening off the seedlings by exposing them to outdoor conditions for a few hours a day over a week.

• Transplant them into well-draining soil in a sunny spot.

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7. Ongoing Care

• Strawberries like slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5).

• Keep them well-watered but avoid soggy soil.

• Remove runners if you want to encourage larger fruit production.

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8. Harvest

• Strawberries usually take about 4–6 months from seed to fruit, so be patient!

• Alpine varieties may produce fruit the first year, while larger varieties might take until the second season.

TIP: Apply compost or a natural fertilizer to the soil before transplanting the plants.

Growing Strawberries From Bare Roots

1. Choosing Bare-Root Strawberry Plants

• Bare-root strawberries are dormant plants that have been dug up, cleaned of soil, and stored under cool conditions.

• There are three main types of strawberries to choose from:

• June-bearing – Produce one large crop in early summer.

• Everbearing – Produce two or three smaller harvests throughout the growing season.

• Day-neutral – Produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season as long as temperatures stay moderate (around 35–85°F or 2–29°C).

• Make sure you buy from a reputable supplier for disease-free and high-quality plants.

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2. When and Where to Plant

• Timing: Plant bare-root strawberries in early spring as soon as the ground is workable.

• Location: Choose a spot that gets 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

• Soil: Well-draining soil is essential to prevent root rot.

• Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

• If your soil is heavy clay, amend it with compost or aged manure to improve drainage.

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3. Preparing the Roots

• Soak the roots in lukewarm water for about 1–2 hours before planting to rehydrate them. I have found this step to be absolutely necessary.

• Trim any excessively long or damaged roots to about 4–5 inches to encourage healthy growth.

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4. Planting Technique

• Space plants 12–18 inches apart in rows about 2–3 feet apart. This allows air circulation and room for runners to spread.

• The crown (the point where the roots meet the stem) should sit right at soil level. If the crown is too deep, it can rot. If the crown is too high, the roots may dry out.

• Fan the roots out gently in the planting hole.

• Backfill with soil, making sure the roots are fully covered but the crown remains exposed.

• Lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets.

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5. Watering

• Water thoroughly after planting.

• Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) during the first few weeks to help the roots establish.

• Once established, water about 1 inch per week — more during hot, dry spells.

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6. Mulching

• Add a layer of straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves around the plants to:

• Keep the soil moist.

• Suppress weeds.

• Protect developing berries from direct contact with soil (reducing rot).

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7. Managing First-Year Growth

For June-bearing and everbearing types:

• Remove some flowers for the first 4–6 weeks after planting. Some recommend to remove all flowers but I found leaving a few behind does just as well. Plus, you can enjoy a few berries this way.

• This encourages stronger roots leading to better long-term production.

For day-neutral types:

• You can allow them to fruit earlier since they’re naturally more productive over the season.

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8. Controlling Runners

• June-bearing strawberries produce a lot of runners (horizontal stems that develop into new plants).

• Allow some runners to root if you want to expand the patch.

• If you prefer larger fruit and healthier plants, cut off excess runners so the plant can focus on fruiting.

• Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries produce fewer runners, so they require less maintenance in this area.

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9. Feeding and Fertilizing

• After planting, feed the plants with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) to support root and leaf growth. I will always recommend using a natural fertilizer to have an organic harvest!

• Once flowering starts, switch to a fertilizer higher in potassium and phosphorus – or nutrient rich compost – to promote fruiting.

• Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen — it will lead to leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

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10. Winter Care

• In colder climates, cover the plants with a thick layer of straw or mulch (about 3–4 inches) after the ground freezes.

• Remove the mulch in early spring once the plants start showing new growth.

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11. Harvesting

• Most June-bearing and everbearing plants produce a small crop in the first year, but larger harvests come in the second year.

• Day-neutral varieties will often start producing fruit within 3 months of planting.

• Harvest berries when they are fully red and slightly soft.

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Pros of Bare-Root Plants:

– Faster to establish than seeds

– More reliable and consistent fruiting

– Cheaper than potted plants

– Wider variety selection

Potential Challenges

Plants may experience transplant shock, watering and proper soil contact help avoid this. Overcrowding can lead to fungal issues — spacing and air circulation are key.

Pests like birds, gophers and bugs like to chew on the sweet flesh of the berry. Paint some rocks red and place them around the strawberries, cover them with netting or spray natural deterrents if this becomes an issue.

Growing strawberries can be tricky, but with a little TLC, you can have sweet, juicy berries in no time. Just remember: keep the crowns at the right height, don’t drown them with love (or water), and give them room to stretch. The first year might be a bit of a warm-up, but by the second season, you’ll be rolling in strawberries — enough for snacking, shortcake, and even some homemade jam (if you don’t eat them all first). Happy growing — and may your strawberry patch be as sweet as the fruit!

The post Guide to Growing Strawberries appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

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1. Not considering sunlight: Many plants have specific sunlight requirements. Make sure to research the plant you plan to grow to find out the sunlight requirements. Some plants prefer full sun, some prefer shade.
2. Overwatering or underwatering: Finding the right balance of water is crucial for plant health. Overwatering can lead to root rot, while underwatering can cause wilting and stunted growth. Learn the water needs of your plants and adjust accordingly.
3. Ignoring soil quality: Good soil is essential for healthy plant growth. Test your soil for pH and nutrient levels and amend it as needed with organic matter such as compost or fertilizer.
4. Planting too close together: While it might be tempting to maximize space, overcrowding plants can lead to competition for nutrients, water, and sunlight. Follow spacing recommendations to ensure proper growth and airflow between plants.
5. Neglecting pest control: Pests can quickly damage or destroy your plants if left unchecked. Keep an eye out for signs of pest infestation and take preventative measures such as using companion planting, natural predators, or organic pesticides.
6. Not mulching: Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Apply a layer of mulch around your plants to improve overall garden health. While this step isn’t necessary – i strongly recommend it for fruits such as raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries.
7. Not buying your seed from a quality source: All gardens start at the same stage: seeds. Buying seeds from a known and trusted source will set you up for success. Even more so if you want to save your own seeds to use next year. I know and trust a few quality seed brands such as T & T Seeds and Seeds Now. Use this link to check out the wide variety of seeds Seeds Now offers!
8. Ignoring plant hardiness zones: Different plants thrive in different climates. Make sure to choose plants that are suitable for your hardiness zone to increase their chances of survival – especially perennial plants.
9. Not interplanting: Lets get rid of that idea that we can only grow the same kind of plants near each other. Certain plants are companions that can benefit each other in a range of methods. Interplanting can help reduce the spread of disease and pests while bringing beneficial insects in.
10. Planting seeds once per season: Many garden vegetables such as carrots, lettuce, beets, peas etc.. are good options to plant mid summer once harvest has begun for that plant. This ensures a harvest later in the summer and into the fall.
11. Not starting the appropriate seeds indoors: Some plants will benefit from being started indoors and transplanted in the garden once the weather allows and they have sufficient growth. Starting seeds indoors is a great tool for those of use that live in cooler climates and shorter growing zones. Tomatoes, peppers, berries, broccoli, cauliflower, herbs, and some flower varieties are recommended to start indoors for my growing zone – and that’s just what I do. Make sure you harden off any plants started indoors!
12. Not providing support for vertical growth: Many plants, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and peas, require support for vertical growth to prevent them from sprawling on the ground and to promote better airflow and sunlight exposure. Invest in trellises, stakes, or cages to support these plants as they grow.

We all have our tips and tricks when it comes to the garden – the point is to find what works for you. But to do that – you must experiment. For instance, when I transplant any plant into the garden, I dig the hole way too deep then fill it half way with compost and water before placing my tomato plant (or whatever I’m transplanting) into the hole. This works for me because it gives my plants that little boost that they need in their new home.

TOOLS

Every gardener needs tools. Nothing fancy – just enough to get the work done. In my garden ‘tool kit’ I have a trowel, neem oil, stakes, jute cord, hand weeding tool, snippers and pruners. I could list a whole bunch more but these are the things I find myself reaching for the most. If you plan to start seeds indoors you only need 4 things:

1. Seedling nursery pots
2. Light – artificial or natural
3. Quality soil
4. Seeds

So, whether you’ve accidentally drowned your petunias, staged a tomato rebellion, or found yourself in a battle of wits with a stubborn weed, remember this: every wilted leaf, every withered stem, is just another day in your garden and there are thousands of others experiencing the same. Learning which gardening mistakes to avoid is just a part of the process! Gardens teach us patience, and if we’re patient, we’ll learn a little more each year. May your gardens flourish, your spirits bloom, and may your gardening escapades be the stuff of legend!

May your thumbs forever remain a delightful shade of green!

Happy Gardening!

The post Gardening Mistakes to Avoid appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Why is Hardening Off so Important?

1. Temperature Adjustment: Indoor environments offer stable temperatures, unlike the fluctuating conditions outdoors. Hardening off allows plants to adapt gradually to these changes, preventing shock and ensuring continued growth.
2. Wind Resistance: Indoor-grown plants are sheltered from wind, which they’ll encounter outdoors. By gradually exposing them to gentle breezes during hardening off, plants develop stronger stems and roots, better equipped to withstand wind stress.
3. Sunlight Exposure: Indoor lighting differs from natural sunlight in intensity and duration. Hardening off provides plants with the opportunity to adjust gradually to the brighter, more direct sunlight outdoors, reducing the risk of sunburn or leaf damage.
4. Water Management: Outdoor conditions often lead to faster evaporation rates, necessitating efficient water absorption by the plants. Hardening off encourages the development of robust root systems capable of absorbing water effectively, reducing the risk of dehydration.
5. Pest and Disease Resistance: Indoor environments typically offer protection against pests and diseases. Hardening off exposes plants to outdoor conditions, where they may encounter such challenges. This exposure stimulates their natural defense mechanisms, enhancing their resilience against pests and diseases.

But How?

• Ensure that the temperature outside is representative of the growing conditions that the plants will face in the garden.
• After the allotted time outdoors – bring the plants back inside.
• Gradually increase the exposure time. By the end of the two week minimum – the plants should be left outside for 12 hours or even overnight.

In summary, hardening off is a crucial step in preparing plants for successful transplantation outdoors. By gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions, plants develop the resilience and strength necessary to thrive in the garden or outdoor containers.

The post Hardening Off Indoor Grown Plants appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Growing cucumbers can be a gratifying experience, and by following these steps, you can increase your chances of success:

Selecting the Right Variety: Choose cucumber varieties that suit your growing conditions and preferences. Options include slicing cucumbers for salads, pickling cucumbers for preserving, or specialty varieties like lemon cucumbers for unique flavors.

Fertility: Cucumbers thrive in nutrient-rich soil, so it’s essential to prepare the soil before planting. Incorporating organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure can improve soil fertility and provide essential nutrients for plant growth.

pH Level: Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH level in the soil, ideally between 6.0 to 7.0. You can test the pH of your soil using a home testing kit or by sending a sample to a local agricultural extension service for analysis.

Drainage: Cucumbers prefer well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other issues. If your soil tends to retain water, consider amending it with materials like sand or perlite to improve drainage.

Tillage: Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of about 6 to 8 inches using a garden fork or tiller. This helps create a loose and aerated soil structure, which promotes healthy root development and water infiltration.

Planting Your Cucumbers

Choosing the Planting Location: Select a sunny spot in your garden that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Cucumbers are warm-season crops and require warmth to grow and produce fruit.

Planting Seeds or Seedlings: You can start cucumber plants indoors about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. Alternatively, sow cucumber seeds directly into the garden soil once all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds about 1 inch deep and 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the variety. So, You’ll need to do your research!

Direct Sowing: If you’re sowing cucumber seeds directly into the garden soil, spacing is crucial to ensure adequate room for plant growth and development. Space seeds about 1 inch deep and 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on the variety.

Hills vs. Rows: Cucumbers can be planted in either hills or rows, depending on your preference and available space. In row planting, space the rows about 3 to 5 feet apart to allow for easy access and airflow between plants.

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Thinning: If you’ve planted multiple seeds in each hole, thinning is essential to avoid overcrowding and competition for nutrients. Once seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves, thin them to one strong seedling per hole, ensuring proper spacing between plants. This all depends on how you like to grow cucumbers – I prefer mine to be a little crowded to make maximum use of space, but I also supplement with added nutrients.

Support Structures: If you’re using support structures like trellises or stakes, consider planting cucumbers closer together to maximize space utilization. Vertical gardening techniques allow for higher planting densities while still providing adequate support for the vining plants. I’ve grown cucumbers both with and without a trellis and each method has it’s own pros and cons. I recommend experimenting and learning how to grow cucumbers in a way that suits you!

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Cucumbers have shallow roots, so frequent watering is essential, especially during hot and dry weather. Avoid overhead watering, as it can promote diseases; instead, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system.

Fertilizing: Apply a balanced fertilizer or compost to the soil before planting, and then continue to feed the plants every few weeks throughout the growing season. Be cautious not to over-fertilize, as this can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production.

Pruning and Thinning: Remove any damaged or diseased leaves and prune excessive foliage to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration. Thin out overcrowded seedlings to allow proper spacing and prevent competition for nutrients.

Pest and Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common cucumber pests like aphids, cucumber beetles, and powdery mildew. Practice good garden hygiene, such as removing plant debris and rotating crops annually, to minimize the risk of pests and diseases.

Harvesting: Most cucumber varieties are ready for harvest in 50 to 70 days after planting, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions. Harvest cucumbers when they reach the desired size and color, typically 6 to 8 inches long for slicing cucumbers and smaller for pickling varieties. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, taking care not to damage the plant.

• Monoecious: Most garden cucumbers are what we call “monoecious,” meaning they have male and female flowers on the same plant.
• Gynoecious: These cucumber types are all about girl power – they mainly produce female flowers. Some need pollination to bear fruit, while others are like, “Who needs boys?” and do just fine without them, giving you tons of cucumbers without male flowers getting in the way.
• Parthenocarpic: These cucumbers are the rebels of the bunch. They couldn’t care less about pollination for fruit growth.

Fresh in Salads: Cucumbers are salad staples, adding a crisp and refreshing crunch to any bowl of greens. Slice them up or dice them for a burst of flavor and texture.

Sliced for Sandwiches: Upgrade your sandwiches by adding cucumber slices for extra freshness and crunch. They’re a great addition to everything from classic deli sandwiches to veggie wraps.

Pickling: If you’re feeling a bit adventurous, why not try your hand at pickling? Cucumbers make delicious pickles when soaked in a tangy brine with herbs and spices. Homemade pickles are perfect for snacking or adding to sandwiches and burgers. Check out my dill pickle recipe!

Refreshing Beverages: Blend cucumbers into smoothies or juice them for a hydrating and revitalizing drink. Cucumber-infused water is also a popular choice for a refreshing and detoxifying beverage.

Cold Soups: Cucumbers are a key ingredient in cold soups like gazpacho, providing a cool and refreshing base that’s perfect for hot summer days.

Garnishes and Decorations: Get creative with cucumber garnishes and decorations for your dishes. Slice them thinly and curl them into ribbons for an elegant touch, or use a vegetable peeler to create decorative patterns.

Skin Care: Cucumbers are known for their soothing and hydrating properties, making them a popular ingredient in homemade skincare treatments. Try placing cucumber slices over your eyes to reduce puffiness or blend them into a face mask for a refreshing skin treatment.

Relish and Salsa: Chop cucumbers finely and mix them with onions, tomatoes, and herbs for a delicious relish or salsa. Serve it alongside grilled meats or as a topping for tacos and nachos.

I hope this gave you a little more insight on how to grow cucumbers! As always, please share your experiences in the comments!

As always, Happy Gardening!

The post How to Grow Cucumbers appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Learning how to grow broccoli in your garden opens a world of culinary delights and nutritional benefits. Broccoli, a member of the Brassicaceae family, is not only a versatile and delicious vegetable but also a rewarding addition to any home garden. From its origins in the Mediterranean region and Asia to its widespread cultivation today, broccoli has captured the attention of gardeners and food enthusiasts alike. Keep on reading for all of the basic information you need to become a experienced broccoli grower!

Common Name: Broccoli
Botanical Name: Brassica oleracea var. italica
Family: Brassicaceae
Plant Type: Broccoli is a versatile plant that can be grown as either a biennial or annual vegetable.
Size: Typically, broccoli plants range from 18 to 30 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, depending on growing conditions.
Sun Exposure: Broccoli thrives in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and productivity.
Soil Type: Broccoli prefers moist, loamy soil that is well-drained to prevent waterlogging.
Soil pH: It grows best in soil with a neutral pH level.
Hardiness Zones: Broccoli can be grown in a wide range of climates, spanning from USDA hardiness zones 2 to 11.
Native Area: Originating from the Mediterranean region and Asia, broccoli has been cultivated for centuries and adapted to various environments worldwide.

Do some re-search to find which broccoli variety would be best for your climate. Seeds Now has a wide variety of broccoli seeds to choose from and well as free growing guides.

When planning to grow broccoli, it’s best to start seeds indoors 6 -10 weeks prior to the last expected frost date, ensure you start earlier if your growing zone has a short growing season. For a continuous supply, consider starting multiple seedlings at different periods to provide a continuous supply. I personally don’t do this but I know people who do. It is also essential to ‘harden off’ broccoli before planting it outdoors. This is because the plants need time to adjust to the light and temperature difference! Planting broccoli mid-summer would provide a fall harvest for those that live in climates with a mild fall. Transplant the seedlings into the garden in late April or early May. Broccoli is able to survive through light frosts events so transplanting them in the garden earlier is just fine. These re-useable seedling pots from Amazon are what I use for all of my seed starting:

Broccoli thrives in cooler weather, resulting in tastier and healthier heads compared to those harvested in warmer months. Broccoli is a hungry plant, so it benefits from nutrient-rich soil. Before planting, incorporate some compost or fertilizer into the area where the broccoli will be planted.

PRO TIP: if you are using an indoor greenhouse, use a fan on your seedlings. Doing this will strengthen the stems of the plant. Therefor, giving it a better chance to survive outdoors.

• Plant broccoli in rows spaced 18-24 inches feet in the garden (they branch out and grow quite large).
• Allow a spacing of 18 to 14 inches between individual plants within the rows.
• Adjust plant spacing according to desired head size and side shoot production. Greater spacing between plants results in larger heads but fewer side shoots. Whereas smaller spacing between plants would do the opposite.
• When growing a large plant such as broccoli, I recommend to add small amount of compost or organic fertilizer to the hole where the root ball will be placed. As a result, the plants have a better chance for success adjusting to the outdoors!

How to Harvest Broccoli

In the broccoli’s growth cycle, the initial harvest is the central flower head, resembling a green cauliflower. It’s the massive green broccoli head growing right in the center of the plant – you cant miss it, LOL. To harvest, use a sharp knife to cut it off at an angle, leaving 6 inches of stem intact. This encourages the growth of side shoots to develop. It’s essential to cut the head before it begins to separate. Once the head looks like its spreading out and separating – it’ll soon start to flower (and we don’t want that). Once the main central head is removed, smaller side shoots will continue to develop, providing a continual harvest. Keep in mind that these side shoots will be quite small and you’ll likely need multiple of them for a meal. Check out how to grow broccoli side shoots!

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• Cabbage Loopers
  • Symptoms: Cabbage looper larvae feed on older leaves, creating irregular holes; heads may be bored.
  • Control/Prevention: treat with Neem oil.
• Aphids
  • Symptoms: Curled, misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold.
  • Control/Prevention: Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs).
• Diamondback Moth Caterpillars
  • Symptoms: Small holes in leaves; rapid movement when disturbed.
  • Control/Prevention: Rainfall or daily overhead sprinkle irrigation; use insecticides; remove plant debris.
• Armyworms
  • Symptoms: Leaf damaged by armyworms; large, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement.
  • Control/Prevention: Handpick off plants; use products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt); use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season.
• Cabbage Webworms
  • Symptoms: Webbing on buds, growing tips, midribs of leaves, main stem, and stalk; feeding damage inside webs.
  • Control/Prevention: Treat with Bacillus thuringiensis; use floating row covers.
• Cabbage Root Maggots
  • Symptoms: Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots.
  • Control/Prevention: Use collars around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; plant strong, healthy seedlings.
• Imported Cabbageworms
  • Symptoms: Devouring of foliage, preventing head formation; burrowing into broccoli heads.
  • Control/Prevention: Encourage natural enemies; use Bacillus thuringiensis.
• Flea Beetles
  • Symptoms: Tiny holes in leaves; young plants and seedlings most susceptible.
  • Control/Prevention: Use row covers until plants are established; apply neem oil.
• Harlequin Bugs
  • Symptoms: Yellow or white blotches on plant tissue; wilting and browning of plants.
  • Control/Prevention: Handpick bugs; thorough fall cleanup; avoid insecticides.
• Whiteflies
  • Symptoms: Yellowing, shriveling, premature dropping of leaves; sap-sucking weakening of plants.
  • Control/Prevention: Sticky traps, insecticidal soap, Neem oil

Growing Broccoli Isn’t as Hard as You’d Think

Growing broccoli can be a rewarding experience for gardeners of all levels. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can successfully cultivate healthy and bountiful broccoli crops in your garden. From selecting the right varieties and preparing the soil to managing pests and diseases, each step plays a crucial role in the success of your broccoli plants.

Remember, broccoli thrives in cooler weather and benefits from nutrient-rich soil. Regular monitoring for pests and diseases, along with timely intervention, will help ensure a productive harvest. By practicing proper care and maintenance, you can enjoy the satisfaction of harvesting fresh, homegrown broccoli packed with flavor and nutrients.

So, roll up your sleeves, dig into the earth, and enjoy the process of learning how to grow broccoli. With patience, dedication, and a bit of green-thumb know-how, you’ll soon be enjoying the delicious rewards of your labor straight from the garden to your table. Happy Gardening!

The post Broccoli – How to Grow From Seed appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Basil, with its vibrant green leaves and distinctive aroma, is a staple herb in kitchens around the world. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, cultivating basil in your own backyard can be a rewarding and delicious experience. Read more to learn just how easy it is to grow basil!

Be sure to buy seeds from a quality supplier. I love Seeds Now. They have a wide range of basil seeds and even some free growing guides!

All About Basil

Botanical Information:

• Botanical Name: Ocimum americanum
• Life Cycle: Herbaceous annual
• Hardiness Zones: All Zones – I start seeds indoors and have a bountiful harvest in zone 3a
• Planting Season: Spring, summer
• Days to Maturity: 60-80 days; can begin harvesting when 6″ tall

Planting Details:

• Depth to Plant Seeds: 1/4″ deep
• Days to Germinate: 5-10 days
• Germination Soil Temperatures: 70°F-75°F
• Spacing Between Plants: 12″-16″ apart
• Spacing Between Rows: 18″-22″ apart
• Number of Plants per Square Foot: 1 or 2 per square foot (I prefer planting them closer)
• Start Seeds Indoors: Yes (Optional)

Soil and Environmental Requirements:

• Soil Types: Sandy, loamy, silty, rich, moist, well-drained
• Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
• Sun Needs: Full sun
• Water Needs: High – keep soil moist
• Heat Tolerant: Yes
• Deer Resistant: Yes

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Uses of Basil

Basil is widely used in culinary dishes. Basil is renowned for its aromatic and distinctive flavor profile. Its taste is often described as sweet, slightly peppery, and with hints of anise or clove-like undertones. Depending on the variety, basil can also exhibit subtle differences in flavor intensity and notes, ranging from mild and delicate to bold and robust. Use a dehydrator or hang to dry your basil for use year round!

Basil is not only cherished for its culinary uses but also valued for its potential medicinal benefits. Some of the medicinal properties attributed to basil include:

1. Anti-inflammatory: Basil contains compounds like eugenol and rosmarinic acid, which have anti-inflammatory properties. Consuming basil or using basil oil may help reduce inflammation in the body.
2. Antioxidant: Basil is rich in antioxidants, such as flavonoids and polyphenols, which help protect cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. This antioxidant activity may contribute to overall health and wellness.
3. Antimicrobial: Basil has antimicrobial properties that may help fight against certain bacteria, viruses, and fungi. It has been used traditionally to support immune health and combat infections.
4. Digestive Aid: Basil has been used in traditional medicine to aid digestion and relieve digestive discomfort. It may help soothe the stomach, reduce gas and bloating, and promote healthy digestion.
5. Stress Relief: The aroma of basil has been associated with relaxation and stress relief. In aromatherapy, basil essential oil is used to alleviate tension, promote mental clarity, and uplift the mood.
6. Respiratory Support: Basil has expectorant properties that may help loosen mucus and relieve respiratory congestion. It is often used in herbal remedies for coughs, colds, and respiratory infections.
7. Blood Sugar Control: Some research suggests that basil may help regulate blood sugar levels and improve insulin sensitivity. Consuming basil regularly as part of a balanced diet may be beneficial for individuals with diabetes or insulin resistance.

While basil offers these potential health benefits, it’s essential to incorporate it as part of a varied and balanced diet, and to consult with a healthcare professional before using it as a treatment for any specific medical condition.

To learn more about medicinal herbs, check out my top 5 medicinal herbs and the remedies to go along with them!

How to Grow Basil With Companions

Basil serves as an excellent companion plant in the garden, offering a myriad of benefits. Its aromatic foliage attracts beneficial insects like hummingbirds, pollinators, and predatory insects that prey on garden pests. Additionally, basil acts as a natural repellent, deterring a wide range of common garden pests including:

• Tomato hornworms
• Aphids
• Asparagus beetles
• Cabbage worms
• Cabbage moths
• Cabbage white butterflies
• Spider mites
• Carrot rust flies
• Flies
• Maggots

Incorporating basil into your garden not only enhances biodiversity but also helps to maintain a balanced ecosystem and reduce the need for chemical pesticides. I love planting my basil in with my tomatoes! Basil can be planted with an array of garden companions:

1. Tomatoes: Basil and tomatoes are classic companions in the garden. Basil can enhance the flavor of tomatoes while also helping to repel pests like aphids and hornworms.
2. Peppers: Basil is beneficial when planted near peppers as it can improve their flavor and repel pests such as aphids and spider mites.
3. Oregano: These two herbs share similar growing conditions and complement each other well in the garden. They can be planted together to create a fragrant and flavorful herb garden.
4. Rosemary: Basil and rosemary are both aromatic herbs that can be grown together to create a visually appealing and aromatic garden space. Rosemary’s strong scent may also help deter pests.
5. Lettuce: Basil can be planted alongside lettuce to help repel pests like slugs and aphids while also providing a flavorful addition to salads.
6. Beans: Basil can help improve the flavor of beans and deter pests such as beetles and aphids when planted nearby.
7. Cucumbers: Basil can enhance the flavor of cucumbers and help repel pests like whiteflies and aphids.
8. Marigolds: While not a vegetable or herb, marigolds are often planted as companion plants with basil. Marigolds can help repel pests like nematodes and aphids while also adding color to the garden.

How to Plant Basil

Basil is an annual so it’s planted in the spring and will die back likely after the first fall frost. Basil loves heat so ensure temperatures are sufficient before you plant outside. If you live in a zone that has a longer summer, sowing seeds directly into the ground is likely what you’ll do. But, for those of us that live in shorter, cooler zones… we’ll need to start the seeds indoors and transplant to the garden in the spring. Plant the seeds – either outdoors or in a seedling nursery pot – 1/4 inch deep and keep it well watered, but not soggy. Ensure the pots are in a warm area if you plan to start indoors. Once your basil has popped out of the ground and is growing – it’ll need 6-8 hours of sunlight. Make sure the outdoor spot chosen for your basil is full sun and they are spaced 12 inches apart. Ensure your basil gets watered frequently.

How to Harvest Basil

When learning how to grow basil, it’s essential to maintain its growth by promptly removing any flowers that begin to pop out of the top of the plant. This action redirects the plant’s energy towards leaf production and promotes branching. Once your basil plant reaches around 6 inches in height, you can start pinching off the top portions of these branches to further encourage branching. You can bring in the parts you pinched off and use them as you wish. Plus, pinching off will encourage a bushier, healthier plant.

Let me know your basil success stories in the comments! Happy Gardening!

The post How To Grow Basil appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Growing your own food in today’s society holds profound importance, offering a multitude of benefits that extend far beyond mere sustenance. In an era marked by environmental concerns, health consciousness, and economic fluctuations, cultivating your own produce emerges as a practical and rewarding endeavor. Here are some key reasons why growing food and herbs in your backyard is significant in contemporary society:

1. Food Security: With uncertainties surrounding global food supply chains due to factors such as climate change, political instability, and pandemics, cultivating your own food provides a sense of security. By reducing reliance on external sources, individuals and communities can safeguard themselves against potential disruptions in food distribution.
2. Nutritional Quality: Homegrown produce often boasts superior nutritional quality compared to commercially grown counterparts. The ability to control soil quality, avoid harmful pesticides, and harvest at peak ripeness ensures that fruits, vegetables, and herbs are rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, promoting optimal health and well-being.
3. Environmental Sustainability: Industrial agriculture contributes significantly to environmental degradation through deforestation, water pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions. By adopting sustainable gardening practices such as composting, rainwater harvesting, and organic cultivation techniques, home gardeners can minimize their ecological footprint and contribute to preserving biodiversity and mitigating climate change.
4. Cost Savings: While the initial investment in gardening equipment and seeds may seem daunting, growing your own food can lead to substantial long-term savings. By eliminating the markup associated with retail prices and reducing grocery bills, individuals can enjoy fresh, organic produce at a fraction of the cost.
5. Connection to Nature: Engaging in gardening fosters a deeper connection to the natural world, allowing individuals to reconnect with the rhythms of the seasons and gain a profound appreciation for the interconnectedness of all living beings. Tending to plants offers therapeutic benefits, reducing stress levels, and promoting mindfulness.
6. Community Building: Gardening has the power to bring people together, fostering a sense of community spirit and camaraderie. Community gardens, in particular, serve as hubs for social interaction, knowledge sharing, and collective empowerment, transcending cultural and socioeconomic barriers.
7. Self-Sufficiency: Growing your own food cultivates a sense of self-sufficiency and resilience, empowering individuals to take control of their food production and consumption. This autonomy extends beyond the realm of food security, influencing lifestyle choices and fostering a mindset of resourcefulness and independence.
8. Cultural Preservation: Many heirloom varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs are at risk of extinction due to the homogenization of agricultural practices. By growing heritage plants, individuals contribute to the preservation of cultural diversity and culinary traditions, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy the rich tapestry of flavors and textures that define regional cuisines.

No One is an Expert

Now, I understand that there are people out there with wishes to grow their very own produce but don’t have the knowledge to start. No one knows everything – that is a fact. All of my friends come to me because they think I am the garden expert but that is simply inaccurate. I have loads of experience, yes. But I still run into road blocks or turn to my library of books multiple times throughout the growing season. In this post, I will share with you all of the books that I recommend to keep on hand for your own gardening journey! I prefer books and note pads because if our world ever goes to crap and we have no access to the internet – we have the resources to turn to!

Where to Start?

Starting with quality seeds is always step one. Seeds Now has hundreds of quality seed varieties to choose from. You can check the seeds out here. They also have resource packages – perfect for the avid learners – that you can view here.

Gardening Connects us to Nature

Living simply and sustainably is like finding the ultimate balance in life, you know? It’s about stripping away the excess and focusing on what truly matters – our connection to each other and to the world around us. When we simplify, we create space for joy and creativity. And when we live sustainably, we become stewards of the earth. It’s a beautiful dance between simplicity and sustainability, where every mindful choice we make ripples outwards, creating a brighter, more harmonious world. So let’s embrace the beauty of simplicity and sustainability, and let our lives become a shining example of love and stewardship for all.

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The Best Books About Vegetable Gardening:

The Best Books About Herbal Gardens:

Learning to garden is all about trial and error, learning what works and what doesn’t, and learning along the way. A helpful tip I have is to log everything. I started out with a notebook and each seed variety I planted had its own page. I would write down planting dates, how many germinated, how many plants died, any pests I saw, what fertilizer I did, how much they were watered, big rain events, hot days, and harvest dates & quality. This may be a bit overboard, and is completely optional but I found it extremely helpful when I was trouble shooting or trying to improve from the year prior. Today I use a proper gardening planner from Amazon:

Some day I would like to make my own garden planner but for now – I’ll use what works for me!

Learn From a Homesteader

The internet is full of people that want to share their experiences with others. One that stands out is Teri at Homestead Honey. She offers e-books and online coaching packages about all things homestead, including a winter gardening guide. Clink the links below to check them out!

Guide to Fall Gardening from Homestead Honey: Get it here!

Remember, no one decides to try something new and becomes an expert overnight. These books aren’t only for beginners – you’re never too experienced to learn more. I reference many of my gardening books throughout the year and I’ve been gardening pretty well my whole life. I can’t wait to pass my love for growing food and all of my books down to my children or grandchildren some day! Maybe you wish to do the same.

Happy Planting!!

The post Growing Food: The Best Books & Resources appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Bee balm thrives in fertile soil within a sunny location, but it exhibits resilience in partial shade, particularly in the summer heat. Once the threat of frost subsides, sow seeds at a depth of 1/8 inch and maintain a spacing of 12 inches when planting in the garden. Ensure consistent soil moisture until the seeds germinate. Alternatively, bee balm can be started indoors and transplanted outside. You can do so by following a few steps:

1. In the fall, harvest bee balm seeds from dried flower heads or order them from a reputable company, such as Seeds Now! Place the dried seeds in the fridge for a few weeks. This process is known as cold stratification.
2. Begin seeding about 7-10 weeks prior to the last frost. Use small pots or trays filled with rich potting mix.
3. Sow four or five seeds in each pot or two seeds in each pot. Place the seeds on the surface and lightly press them down dusting them with soil.

Regularly water the pots with a mist bottle. Don’t let them get too cold and don’t let the soil dry out. After a few weeks, you’ll notice the development of root systems. Pot up the plants when they have two sets of true leaves. Before transplanting them into the garden, make sure to harden off the plants for a week. Choose a time when the weather has warmed, and the risk of frost has completely passed. Once planted, ensure the plants will have good airflow where they are planted to decrease the risk of powdery mildew.

Soil: Choose soil that is rich, moist, and maintains a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Most garden soils will be just fine, but if necessary, enrich poor soil with compost or manure to improve texture and create a more favorable environment. I can confidently say that I’ve never pH tested my garden soil, though some day I should. Since the roots are quite shallow, applying a layer of mulch on the soil surface helps retain moisture. Bee balm grows wild on the side of the road, so I’m sure that most garden soil will be suffice.

Fertilizer: While I’m not a huge fan of placing artificial fertilizer in the garden, you can enhance your bee balm’s nutrition with a balanced A 10-15-10-0 (NPKS) fertilizer each spring. Be extremely careful to prevent over-fertilization, which could kill your plants all together. Instead, I would recommend adding some natural fertilizer, such as compost mixed into the soil where you plan to place your bee balm.

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Water: Bee balm grows well in consistently damp soil. Regular watering, typically at least once a week, is necessary to prevent the soil drying out. Consistent watering, especially in the first year, will encourage healthy root development. Water the bee balm 1-2 inches per week and you’ll be set!

Sun: Wild bergamots optimal growth is achieved with a minimum of six hours of daily exposure to full sunlight. Excessive shade can result in leggy growth and take away from the energy that should be put into the blooms.

Winter Care: Once frost takes its toll on plants during the fall or winter, trim all stems to approximately 2 inches above ground level. Dispose of debris instead of incorporating it into compost heaps to avoid the lingering presence of fungal spores. In most areas, additional winter protection is unnecessary; however, gardeners in regions experiencing extremely cold winters may opt to mulch the crown to safeguard roots against freeze-thaw cycles.

Pruning Tips: Enthusiasts of bee balm often appreciate the untamed, ‘boho’-like ambiance it brings to the garden, but occasional pruning remains essential. In the unfortunate case that powdery mildew is affecting the plants, it is essential to trim the stems down to ground level. To maintain the plant’s bushy appearance, prune lightly here and there, that’s the practice I do. Once fall arrives it’s optional to snip back all growth to just a few inches to encourage bushy growth next near. I don’t commonly trim back my Wild Bergamot in the fall and it grows just as steady as the year prior. To each their own. But don’t worry, pruning won’t compromise the plant’s well-being, and it will rejuvenate vigorously come the next spring.

Uses

Wild bergamot stands apart from the typical bergamot flavor found in Earl Grey tea. Historically utilized for medicinal and culinary purposes, bee balm (wild bergamot) plant belongs to the mint family. When used in teas, it can help with nausea, digestive problems, headaches, sore throats and bloating. Bee balm has antiseptic properties and can be used topically to treat minor wounds, rashes, and bug bites. Unlike the bergamot citrus fruit used in Earl Grey tea, Wild Bergamot offers a diverse range of applications beyond merely imparting a citrusy note, making it a valuable and multifunctional herb. Additionally, it’s infused and used as a gargle for sore throats. The fresh leaves and flowers can be used to make tinctures, infusions and even steam for inhalations when you’re sick! The leaves and flowers can also be dried and stored for future use! Wild bergamot has a high oil content so be sure that the leaves and flowers are completely dry before storing to prevent spoilage.

Harvesting

Wild bergamot should be harvested while in full bloom, in July-August. It’s recommended to snip two nodes down, above a set of leaves. Harvesting above the node on some plants can encourage new shoots and growth to begin – this is the case with wild bergamot. You do not need to pull the whole plant as wild bergamot is a perennial and pulling the roots would negatively impact wild bergamot harvests for years to come.

***Avoid taking if you are pregnant or breastfeeding***

Gardening Must Haves

The post How to Grow Bee Balm (Wild Bergamot) appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Now, here’s the scoop on summer – it’s not their favorite season. So, if you’re looking to cultivate a bumper crop, steer clear of planting during the heatwaves. To keep your cauliflower crew happy and hydrated, aim for deep, infrequent watering sessions, and consider laying down some mulch to help retain moisture and ward off unwanted weeds. We can’t help the weather so if the forecast is calling for some scorching days, try to cover the exposed heads and leave the leaves exposed. Come harvest time, keep an eye out for those luscious, compact heads – that’s your cue to grab the shears and start planning some mouthwatering cauliflower dishes.

Soil Preparation

Cauliflower likes well fertilized soil with good drainage. Avoid soils will high clay content as these can get waterlogged after a rain event. Fertilize with compost and any other garden safe, nitrogen rich fertilizer.

Planting & Transplanting Cauliflower

After you plant cauliflower indoors, ensure the have moist (but not wet) soils and bright light. Once they reach 2-3 leaf, thin them out to ensure that there is only one plant per seedling pot. This gives each plant their own space to grow without competition. I use these seedling pots from amazon – they’re re-useable and the perfect size. Once the spring weather allows, bring the cauliflower plants outside for a few hours a day, increasing the time outside each day. This allows the young plants to adjust to the wind and natural sun and gives the best chance of survival once they get moved to the garden. Be sure that the cauliflower plants are 2 feet apart when they get placed in the garden.

Watering

Adding a layer of mulch around the cauliflower plants to help retain moisture and keep the soil cool is a good practice, but it’s optional. Rather than small daily watering, its recommended to give 2-3 deep drinks a week.

Protecting The Heads (Blanching)

Once the cauliflower heads have formed and are the size of a golf ball, pull the largest leaves up and over the head and secure with string, twine or yarn. Elastics are not recommended as they can cut off nutrient flow as the cauliflower grows around it. Doing this will protect the sensitive white cauliflower heads from the heat of the sun.

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Harvesting Cauliflower

You can use shears and snip off the head as soon as its large enough while still remaining firm and compact. If the cauliflower head has begin to separate, you have waited too long. It can still be harvested like this but has likely taken on a bitter taste. The size of a mature, ready-to-pick head can be anywhere from 6-12 inches depending on the variety you grew and your growing conditions.

Cauliflower Companions

Plant with sage, garlic, marigolds, onions, oregano, nasturtiums, thyme, yarrow and potatoes. These will compliment cauliflower by deterring pests, attracting beneficial insects, and enriching the soil. Avoid planting near broccoli, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, corn, squash and other heavy feeders as they may compete for nutrients and water in the soil.

As always, do re-search and figure out which variety would suit your garden best. Check out Seeds Now, they have a self-blanche variety which is perfect for those who grow cauliflower through the short summers! If you grow cauliflower and have some tips and tricks you’d like to share, comment them below! As always, HAPPY PLANTING!

The post How To Grow Cauliflower – For Beginners appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.