From seed (or bare roots) to harvest!

Strawberries are one of the most beloved fruits worldwide, prized for their sweet flavor, vibrant color, and impressive nutritional profile. Packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, and fiber, these juicy berries not only taste delicious but also offer a range of health benefits, from boosting immunity to supporting heart health. My strawberry patch is my pride and joy so I’ve created a basic guide to growing strawberries, whether you are starting from seed or planting bare roots!

Growing Strawberries From Seed

TIP: Strawberries are hardy perennials. They do become less productive after a few years of producing, so be sure to propagate runners for a new generation of strawberries each year.

Starting strawberries from seed can be a bit tricky so patience is key.

1. Choosing Strawberry Seeds

• You can grow strawberries from seeds collected from existing fruit, but it’s better to buy seeds from a reputable source to ensure good germination and quality. Seeds Now is one of my favourite and reputable source of seeds. Click here to check them out!

• Alpine strawberries are a popular choice for growing from seed since they germinate more reliably than larger-fruited varieties.

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2. Prepping The Seeds (Cold Stratification)

Strawberry seeds need cold stratification to mimic winter conditions and encourage germination:

• Place the seeds in a damp paper towel or small container.

• Seal them in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 3–4 weeks. This helps to break dormancy.

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3. Sowing the Seeds

• After stratification, fill a seed tray or small pots with a light seed-starting mix (a mix of peat and vermiculite works well or a quality mix from the garden centre will do).

• Lightly press the seeds into the surface of the soil without covering them — strawberry seeds need light to germinate.

• Mist the surface with water to keep it moist but not soggy.

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4. Germination

• Keep the tray or pots in a warm place, ideally 65–75°F (18–24°C).

• Use a humidity dome or plastic wrap to keep moisture levels high.

• Germination can take anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks — patience is key!

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5. Caring for Seedlings

• Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place them under grow lights or in a sunny window.

• Keep the soil moist but avoid overwatering, as strawberry seedlings are prone to damping off.

• Once they have a couple of sets of true leaves, thin them out or transplant them into larger pots.

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6. Hardening Off and Transplanting

• After the last frost, start hardening off the seedlings by exposing them to outdoor conditions for a few hours a day over a week.

• Transplant them into well-draining soil in a sunny spot.

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7. Ongoing Care

• Strawberries like slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5).

• Keep them well-watered but avoid soggy soil.

• Remove runners if you want to encourage larger fruit production.

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8. Harvest

• Strawberries usually take about 4–6 months from seed to fruit, so be patient!

• Alpine varieties may produce fruit the first year, while larger varieties might take until the second season.

TIP: Apply compost or a natural fertilizer to the soil before transplanting the plants.

Growing Strawberries From Bare Roots

1. Choosing Bare-Root Strawberry Plants

• Bare-root strawberries are dormant plants that have been dug up, cleaned of soil, and stored under cool conditions.

• There are three main types of strawberries to choose from:

• June-bearing – Produce one large crop in early summer.

• Everbearing – Produce two or three smaller harvests throughout the growing season.

• Day-neutral – Produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season as long as temperatures stay moderate (around 35–85°F or 2–29°C).

• Make sure you buy from a reputable supplier for disease-free and high-quality plants.

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2. When and Where to Plant

• Timing: Plant bare-root strawberries in early spring as soon as the ground is workable.

• Location: Choose a spot that gets 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

• Soil: Well-draining soil is essential to prevent root rot.

• Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

• If your soil is heavy clay, amend it with compost or aged manure to improve drainage.

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3. Preparing the Roots

• Soak the roots in lukewarm water for about 1–2 hours before planting to rehydrate them. I have found this step to be absolutely necessary.

• Trim any excessively long or damaged roots to about 4–5 inches to encourage healthy growth.

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4. Planting Technique

• Space plants 12–18 inches apart in rows about 2–3 feet apart. This allows air circulation and room for runners to spread.

• The crown (the point where the roots meet the stem) should sit right at soil level. If the crown is too deep, it can rot. If the crown is too high, the roots may dry out.

• Fan the roots out gently in the planting hole.

• Backfill with soil, making sure the roots are fully covered but the crown remains exposed.

• Lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets.

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5. Watering

• Water thoroughly after planting.

• Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) during the first few weeks to help the roots establish.

• Once established, water about 1 inch per week — more during hot, dry spells.

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6. Mulching

• Add a layer of straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves around the plants to:

• Keep the soil moist.

• Suppress weeds.

• Protect developing berries from direct contact with soil (reducing rot).

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7. Managing First-Year Growth

For June-bearing and everbearing types:

• Remove some flowers for the first 4–6 weeks after planting. Some recommend to remove all flowers but I found leaving a few behind does just as well. Plus, you can enjoy a few berries this way.

• This encourages stronger roots leading to better long-term production.

For day-neutral types:

• You can allow them to fruit earlier since they’re naturally more productive over the season.

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8. Controlling Runners

• June-bearing strawberries produce a lot of runners (horizontal stems that develop into new plants).

• Allow some runners to root if you want to expand the patch.

• If you prefer larger fruit and healthier plants, cut off excess runners so the plant can focus on fruiting.

• Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries produce fewer runners, so they require less maintenance in this area.

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9. Feeding and Fertilizing

• After planting, feed the plants with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) to support root and leaf growth. I will always recommend using a natural fertilizer to have an organic harvest!

• Once flowering starts, switch to a fertilizer higher in potassium and phosphorus – or nutrient rich compost – to promote fruiting.

• Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen — it will lead to leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

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10. Winter Care

• In colder climates, cover the plants with a thick layer of straw or mulch (about 3–4 inches) after the ground freezes.

• Remove the mulch in early spring once the plants start showing new growth.

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11. Harvesting

• Most June-bearing and everbearing plants produce a small crop in the first year, but larger harvests come in the second year.

• Day-neutral varieties will often start producing fruit within 3 months of planting.

• Harvest berries when they are fully red and slightly soft.

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Pros of Bare-Root Plants:

– Faster to establish than seeds

– More reliable and consistent fruiting

– Cheaper than potted plants

– Wider variety selection

Potential Challenges

Plants may experience transplant shock, watering and proper soil contact help avoid this. Overcrowding can lead to fungal issues — spacing and air circulation are key.

Pests like birds, gophers and bugs like to chew on the sweet flesh of the berry. Paint some rocks red and place them around the strawberries, cover them with netting or spray natural deterrents if this becomes an issue.

Growing strawberries can be tricky, but with a little TLC, you can have sweet, juicy berries in no time. Just remember: keep the crowns at the right height, don’t drown them with love (or water), and give them room to stretch. The first year might be a bit of a warm-up, but by the second season, you’ll be rolling in strawberries — enough for snacking, shortcake, and even some homemade jam (if you don’t eat them all first). Happy growing — and may your strawberry patch be as sweet as the fruit!

The post Guide to Growing Strawberries appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

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1. Not considering sunlight: Many plants have specific sunlight requirements. Make sure to research the plant you plan to grow to find out the sunlight requirements. Some plants prefer full sun, some prefer shade.
2. Overwatering or underwatering: Finding the right balance of water is crucial for plant health. Overwatering can lead to root rot, while underwatering can cause wilting and stunted growth. Learn the water needs of your plants and adjust accordingly.
3. Ignoring soil quality: Good soil is essential for healthy plant growth. Test your soil for pH and nutrient levels and amend it as needed with organic matter such as compost or fertilizer.
4. Planting too close together: While it might be tempting to maximize space, overcrowding plants can lead to competition for nutrients, water, and sunlight. Follow spacing recommendations to ensure proper growth and airflow between plants.
5. Neglecting pest control: Pests can quickly damage or destroy your plants if left unchecked. Keep an eye out for signs of pest infestation and take preventative measures such as using companion planting, natural predators, or organic pesticides.
6. Not mulching: Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Apply a layer of mulch around your plants to improve overall garden health. While this step isn’t necessary – i strongly recommend it for fruits such as raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries.
7. Not buying your seed from a quality source: All gardens start at the same stage: seeds. Buying seeds from a known and trusted source will set you up for success. Even more so if you want to save your own seeds to use next year. I know and trust a few quality seed brands such as T & T Seeds and Seeds Now. Use this link to check out the wide variety of seeds Seeds Now offers!
8. Ignoring plant hardiness zones: Different plants thrive in different climates. Make sure to choose plants that are suitable for your hardiness zone to increase their chances of survival – especially perennial plants.
9. Not interplanting: Lets get rid of that idea that we can only grow the same kind of plants near each other. Certain plants are companions that can benefit each other in a range of methods. Interplanting can help reduce the spread of disease and pests while bringing beneficial insects in.
10. Planting seeds once per season: Many garden vegetables such as carrots, lettuce, beets, peas etc.. are good options to plant mid summer once harvest has begun for that plant. This ensures a harvest later in the summer and into the fall.
11. Not starting the appropriate seeds indoors: Some plants will benefit from being started indoors and transplanted in the garden once the weather allows and they have sufficient growth. Starting seeds indoors is a great tool for those of use that live in cooler climates and shorter growing zones. Tomatoes, peppers, berries, broccoli, cauliflower, herbs, and some flower varieties are recommended to start indoors for my growing zone – and that’s just what I do. Make sure you harden off any plants started indoors!
12. Not providing support for vertical growth: Many plants, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and peas, require support for vertical growth to prevent them from sprawling on the ground and to promote better airflow and sunlight exposure. Invest in trellises, stakes, or cages to support these plants as they grow.

We all have our tips and tricks when it comes to the garden – the point is to find what works for you. But to do that – you must experiment. For instance, when I transplant any plant into the garden, I dig the hole way too deep then fill it half way with compost and water before placing my tomato plant (or whatever I’m transplanting) into the hole. This works for me because it gives my plants that little boost that they need in their new home.

TOOLS

Every gardener needs tools. Nothing fancy – just enough to get the work done. In my garden ‘tool kit’ I have a trowel, neem oil, stakes, jute cord, hand weeding tool, snippers and pruners. I could list a whole bunch more but these are the things I find myself reaching for the most. If you plan to start seeds indoors you only need 4 things:

1. Seedling nursery pots
2. Light – artificial or natural
3. Quality soil
4. Seeds

So, whether you’ve accidentally drowned your petunias, staged a tomato rebellion, or found yourself in a battle of wits with a stubborn weed, remember this: every wilted leaf, every withered stem, is just another day in your garden and there are thousands of others experiencing the same. Learning which gardening mistakes to avoid is just a part of the process! Gardens teach us patience, and if we’re patient, we’ll learn a little more each year. May your gardens flourish, your spirits bloom, and may your gardening escapades be the stuff of legend!

May your thumbs forever remain a delightful shade of green!

Happy Gardening!

The post Gardening Mistakes to Avoid appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Growing cucumbers can be a gratifying experience, and by following these steps, you can increase your chances of success:

Selecting the Right Variety: Choose cucumber varieties that suit your growing conditions and preferences. Options include slicing cucumbers for salads, pickling cucumbers for preserving, or specialty varieties like lemon cucumbers for unique flavors.

Fertility: Cucumbers thrive in nutrient-rich soil, so it’s essential to prepare the soil before planting. Incorporating organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure can improve soil fertility and provide essential nutrients for plant growth.

pH Level: Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH level in the soil, ideally between 6.0 to 7.0. You can test the pH of your soil using a home testing kit or by sending a sample to a local agricultural extension service for analysis.

Drainage: Cucumbers prefer well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other issues. If your soil tends to retain water, consider amending it with materials like sand or perlite to improve drainage.

Tillage: Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of about 6 to 8 inches using a garden fork or tiller. This helps create a loose and aerated soil structure, which promotes healthy root development and water infiltration.

Planting Your Cucumbers

Choosing the Planting Location: Select a sunny spot in your garden that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Cucumbers are warm-season crops and require warmth to grow and produce fruit.

Planting Seeds or Seedlings: You can start cucumber plants indoors about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. Alternatively, sow cucumber seeds directly into the garden soil once all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds about 1 inch deep and 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the variety. So, You’ll need to do your research!

Direct Sowing: If you’re sowing cucumber seeds directly into the garden soil, spacing is crucial to ensure adequate room for plant growth and development. Space seeds about 1 inch deep and 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on the variety.

Hills vs. Rows: Cucumbers can be planted in either hills or rows, depending on your preference and available space. In row planting, space the rows about 3 to 5 feet apart to allow for easy access and airflow between plants.

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Thinning: If you’ve planted multiple seeds in each hole, thinning is essential to avoid overcrowding and competition for nutrients. Once seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves, thin them to one strong seedling per hole, ensuring proper spacing between plants. This all depends on how you like to grow cucumbers – I prefer mine to be a little crowded to make maximum use of space, but I also supplement with added nutrients.

Support Structures: If you’re using support structures like trellises or stakes, consider planting cucumbers closer together to maximize space utilization. Vertical gardening techniques allow for higher planting densities while still providing adequate support for the vining plants. I’ve grown cucumbers both with and without a trellis and each method has it’s own pros and cons. I recommend experimenting and learning how to grow cucumbers in a way that suits you!

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Cucumbers have shallow roots, so frequent watering is essential, especially during hot and dry weather. Avoid overhead watering, as it can promote diseases; instead, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system.

Fertilizing: Apply a balanced fertilizer or compost to the soil before planting, and then continue to feed the plants every few weeks throughout the growing season. Be cautious not to over-fertilize, as this can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production.

Pruning and Thinning: Remove any damaged or diseased leaves and prune excessive foliage to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration. Thin out overcrowded seedlings to allow proper spacing and prevent competition for nutrients.

Pest and Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common cucumber pests like aphids, cucumber beetles, and powdery mildew. Practice good garden hygiene, such as removing plant debris and rotating crops annually, to minimize the risk of pests and diseases.

Harvesting: Most cucumber varieties are ready for harvest in 50 to 70 days after planting, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions. Harvest cucumbers when they reach the desired size and color, typically 6 to 8 inches long for slicing cucumbers and smaller for pickling varieties. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, taking care not to damage the plant.

• Monoecious: Most garden cucumbers are what we call “monoecious,” meaning they have male and female flowers on the same plant.
• Gynoecious: These cucumber types are all about girl power – they mainly produce female flowers. Some need pollination to bear fruit, while others are like, “Who needs boys?” and do just fine without them, giving you tons of cucumbers without male flowers getting in the way.
• Parthenocarpic: These cucumbers are the rebels of the bunch. They couldn’t care less about pollination for fruit growth.

Fresh in Salads: Cucumbers are salad staples, adding a crisp and refreshing crunch to any bowl of greens. Slice them up or dice them for a burst of flavor and texture.

Sliced for Sandwiches: Upgrade your sandwiches by adding cucumber slices for extra freshness and crunch. They’re a great addition to everything from classic deli sandwiches to veggie wraps.

Pickling: If you’re feeling a bit adventurous, why not try your hand at pickling? Cucumbers make delicious pickles when soaked in a tangy brine with herbs and spices. Homemade pickles are perfect for snacking or adding to sandwiches and burgers. Check out my dill pickle recipe!

Refreshing Beverages: Blend cucumbers into smoothies or juice them for a hydrating and revitalizing drink. Cucumber-infused water is also a popular choice for a refreshing and detoxifying beverage.

Cold Soups: Cucumbers are a key ingredient in cold soups like gazpacho, providing a cool and refreshing base that’s perfect for hot summer days.

Garnishes and Decorations: Get creative with cucumber garnishes and decorations for your dishes. Slice them thinly and curl them into ribbons for an elegant touch, or use a vegetable peeler to create decorative patterns.

Skin Care: Cucumbers are known for their soothing and hydrating properties, making them a popular ingredient in homemade skincare treatments. Try placing cucumber slices over your eyes to reduce puffiness or blend them into a face mask for a refreshing skin treatment.

Relish and Salsa: Chop cucumbers finely and mix them with onions, tomatoes, and herbs for a delicious relish or salsa. Serve it alongside grilled meats or as a topping for tacos and nachos.

I hope this gave you a little more insight on how to grow cucumbers! As always, please share your experiences in the comments!

As always, Happy Gardening!

The post How to Grow Cucumbers appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Learning how to grow broccoli in your garden opens a world of culinary delights and nutritional benefits. Broccoli, a member of the Brassicaceae family, is not only a versatile and delicious vegetable but also a rewarding addition to any home garden. From its origins in the Mediterranean region and Asia to its widespread cultivation today, broccoli has captured the attention of gardeners and food enthusiasts alike. Keep on reading for all of the basic information you need to become a experienced broccoli grower!

Common Name: Broccoli
Botanical Name: Brassica oleracea var. italica
Family: Brassicaceae
Plant Type: Broccoli is a versatile plant that can be grown as either a biennial or annual vegetable.
Size: Typically, broccoli plants range from 18 to 30 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, depending on growing conditions.
Sun Exposure: Broccoli thrives in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and productivity.
Soil Type: Broccoli prefers moist, loamy soil that is well-drained to prevent waterlogging.
Soil pH: It grows best in soil with a neutral pH level.
Hardiness Zones: Broccoli can be grown in a wide range of climates, spanning from USDA hardiness zones 2 to 11.
Native Area: Originating from the Mediterranean region and Asia, broccoli has been cultivated for centuries and adapted to various environments worldwide.

Do some re-search to find which broccoli variety would be best for your climate. Seeds Now has a wide variety of broccoli seeds to choose from and well as free growing guides.

When planning to grow broccoli, it’s best to start seeds indoors 6 -10 weeks prior to the last expected frost date, ensure you start earlier if your growing zone has a short growing season. For a continuous supply, consider starting multiple seedlings at different periods to provide a continuous supply. I personally don’t do this but I know people who do. It is also essential to ‘harden off’ broccoli before planting it outdoors. This is because the plants need time to adjust to the light and temperature difference! Planting broccoli mid-summer would provide a fall harvest for those that live in climates with a mild fall. Transplant the seedlings into the garden in late April or early May. Broccoli is able to survive through light frosts events so transplanting them in the garden earlier is just fine. These re-useable seedling pots from Amazon are what I use for all of my seed starting:

Broccoli thrives in cooler weather, resulting in tastier and healthier heads compared to those harvested in warmer months. Broccoli is a hungry plant, so it benefits from nutrient-rich soil. Before planting, incorporate some compost or fertilizer into the area where the broccoli will be planted.

PRO TIP: if you are using an indoor greenhouse, use a fan on your seedlings. Doing this will strengthen the stems of the plant. Therefor, giving it a better chance to survive outdoors.

• Plant broccoli in rows spaced 18-24 inches feet in the garden (they branch out and grow quite large).
• Allow a spacing of 18 to 14 inches between individual plants within the rows.
• Adjust plant spacing according to desired head size and side shoot production. Greater spacing between plants results in larger heads but fewer side shoots. Whereas smaller spacing between plants would do the opposite.
• When growing a large plant such as broccoli, I recommend to add small amount of compost or organic fertilizer to the hole where the root ball will be placed. As a result, the plants have a better chance for success adjusting to the outdoors!

How to Harvest Broccoli

In the broccoli’s growth cycle, the initial harvest is the central flower head, resembling a green cauliflower. It’s the massive green broccoli head growing right in the center of the plant – you cant miss it, LOL. To harvest, use a sharp knife to cut it off at an angle, leaving 6 inches of stem intact. This encourages the growth of side shoots to develop. It’s essential to cut the head before it begins to separate. Once the head looks like its spreading out and separating – it’ll soon start to flower (and we don’t want that). Once the main central head is removed, smaller side shoots will continue to develop, providing a continual harvest. Keep in mind that these side shoots will be quite small and you’ll likely need multiple of them for a meal. Check out how to grow broccoli side shoots!

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• Cabbage Loopers
  • Symptoms: Cabbage looper larvae feed on older leaves, creating irregular holes; heads may be bored.
  • Control/Prevention: treat with Neem oil.
• Aphids
  • Symptoms: Curled, misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold.
  • Control/Prevention: Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs).
• Diamondback Moth Caterpillars
  • Symptoms: Small holes in leaves; rapid movement when disturbed.
  • Control/Prevention: Rainfall or daily overhead sprinkle irrigation; use insecticides; remove plant debris.
• Armyworms
  • Symptoms: Leaf damaged by armyworms; large, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement.
  • Control/Prevention: Handpick off plants; use products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt); use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season.
• Cabbage Webworms
  • Symptoms: Webbing on buds, growing tips, midribs of leaves, main stem, and stalk; feeding damage inside webs.
  • Control/Prevention: Treat with Bacillus thuringiensis; use floating row covers.
• Cabbage Root Maggots
  • Symptoms: Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots.
  • Control/Prevention: Use collars around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; plant strong, healthy seedlings.
• Imported Cabbageworms
  • Symptoms: Devouring of foliage, preventing head formation; burrowing into broccoli heads.
  • Control/Prevention: Encourage natural enemies; use Bacillus thuringiensis.
• Flea Beetles
  • Symptoms: Tiny holes in leaves; young plants and seedlings most susceptible.
  • Control/Prevention: Use row covers until plants are established; apply neem oil.
• Harlequin Bugs
  • Symptoms: Yellow or white blotches on plant tissue; wilting and browning of plants.
  • Control/Prevention: Handpick bugs; thorough fall cleanup; avoid insecticides.
• Whiteflies
  • Symptoms: Yellowing, shriveling, premature dropping of leaves; sap-sucking weakening of plants.
  • Control/Prevention: Sticky traps, insecticidal soap, Neem oil

Growing Broccoli Isn’t as Hard as You’d Think

Growing broccoli can be a rewarding experience for gardeners of all levels. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can successfully cultivate healthy and bountiful broccoli crops in your garden. From selecting the right varieties and preparing the soil to managing pests and diseases, each step plays a crucial role in the success of your broccoli plants.

Remember, broccoli thrives in cooler weather and benefits from nutrient-rich soil. Regular monitoring for pests and diseases, along with timely intervention, will help ensure a productive harvest. By practicing proper care and maintenance, you can enjoy the satisfaction of harvesting fresh, homegrown broccoli packed with flavor and nutrients.

So, roll up your sleeves, dig into the earth, and enjoy the process of learning how to grow broccoli. With patience, dedication, and a bit of green-thumb know-how, you’ll soon be enjoying the delicious rewards of your labor straight from the garden to your table. Happy Gardening!

The post Broccoli – How to Grow From Seed appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Basil, with its vibrant green leaves and distinctive aroma, is a staple herb in kitchens around the world. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, cultivating basil in your own backyard can be a rewarding and delicious experience. Read more to learn just how easy it is to grow basil!

Be sure to buy seeds from a quality supplier. I love Seeds Now. They have a wide range of basil seeds and even some free growing guides!

All About Basil

Botanical Information:

• Botanical Name: Ocimum americanum
• Life Cycle: Herbaceous annual
• Hardiness Zones: All Zones – I start seeds indoors and have a bountiful harvest in zone 3a
• Planting Season: Spring, summer
• Days to Maturity: 60-80 days; can begin harvesting when 6″ tall

Planting Details:

• Depth to Plant Seeds: 1/4″ deep
• Days to Germinate: 5-10 days
• Germination Soil Temperatures: 70°F-75°F
• Spacing Between Plants: 12″-16″ apart
• Spacing Between Rows: 18″-22″ apart
• Number of Plants per Square Foot: 1 or 2 per square foot (I prefer planting them closer)
• Start Seeds Indoors: Yes (Optional)

Soil and Environmental Requirements:

• Soil Types: Sandy, loamy, silty, rich, moist, well-drained
• Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
• Sun Needs: Full sun
• Water Needs: High – keep soil moist
• Heat Tolerant: Yes
• Deer Resistant: Yes

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Uses of Basil

Basil is widely used in culinary dishes. Basil is renowned for its aromatic and distinctive flavor profile. Its taste is often described as sweet, slightly peppery, and with hints of anise or clove-like undertones. Depending on the variety, basil can also exhibit subtle differences in flavor intensity and notes, ranging from mild and delicate to bold and robust. Use a dehydrator or hang to dry your basil for use year round!

Basil is not only cherished for its culinary uses but also valued for its potential medicinal benefits. Some of the medicinal properties attributed to basil include:

1. Anti-inflammatory: Basil contains compounds like eugenol and rosmarinic acid, which have anti-inflammatory properties. Consuming basil or using basil oil may help reduce inflammation in the body.
2. Antioxidant: Basil is rich in antioxidants, such as flavonoids and polyphenols, which help protect cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. This antioxidant activity may contribute to overall health and wellness.
3. Antimicrobial: Basil has antimicrobial properties that may help fight against certain bacteria, viruses, and fungi. It has been used traditionally to support immune health and combat infections.
4. Digestive Aid: Basil has been used in traditional medicine to aid digestion and relieve digestive discomfort. It may help soothe the stomach, reduce gas and bloating, and promote healthy digestion.
5. Stress Relief: The aroma of basil has been associated with relaxation and stress relief. In aromatherapy, basil essential oil is used to alleviate tension, promote mental clarity, and uplift the mood.
6. Respiratory Support: Basil has expectorant properties that may help loosen mucus and relieve respiratory congestion. It is often used in herbal remedies for coughs, colds, and respiratory infections.
7. Blood Sugar Control: Some research suggests that basil may help regulate blood sugar levels and improve insulin sensitivity. Consuming basil regularly as part of a balanced diet may be beneficial for individuals with diabetes or insulin resistance.

While basil offers these potential health benefits, it’s essential to incorporate it as part of a varied and balanced diet, and to consult with a healthcare professional before using it as a treatment for any specific medical condition.

To learn more about medicinal herbs, check out my top 5 medicinal herbs and the remedies to go along with them!

How to Grow Basil With Companions

Basil serves as an excellent companion plant in the garden, offering a myriad of benefits. Its aromatic foliage attracts beneficial insects like hummingbirds, pollinators, and predatory insects that prey on garden pests. Additionally, basil acts as a natural repellent, deterring a wide range of common garden pests including:

• Tomato hornworms
• Aphids
• Asparagus beetles
• Cabbage worms
• Cabbage moths
• Cabbage white butterflies
• Spider mites
• Carrot rust flies
• Flies
• Maggots

Incorporating basil into your garden not only enhances biodiversity but also helps to maintain a balanced ecosystem and reduce the need for chemical pesticides. I love planting my basil in with my tomatoes! Basil can be planted with an array of garden companions:

1. Tomatoes: Basil and tomatoes are classic companions in the garden. Basil can enhance the flavor of tomatoes while also helping to repel pests like aphids and hornworms.
2. Peppers: Basil is beneficial when planted near peppers as it can improve their flavor and repel pests such as aphids and spider mites.
3. Oregano: These two herbs share similar growing conditions and complement each other well in the garden. They can be planted together to create a fragrant and flavorful herb garden.
4. Rosemary: Basil and rosemary are both aromatic herbs that can be grown together to create a visually appealing and aromatic garden space. Rosemary’s strong scent may also help deter pests.
5. Lettuce: Basil can be planted alongside lettuce to help repel pests like slugs and aphids while also providing a flavorful addition to salads.
6. Beans: Basil can help improve the flavor of beans and deter pests such as beetles and aphids when planted nearby.
7. Cucumbers: Basil can enhance the flavor of cucumbers and help repel pests like whiteflies and aphids.
8. Marigolds: While not a vegetable or herb, marigolds are often planted as companion plants with basil. Marigolds can help repel pests like nematodes and aphids while also adding color to the garden.

How to Plant Basil

Basil is an annual so it’s planted in the spring and will die back likely after the first fall frost. Basil loves heat so ensure temperatures are sufficient before you plant outside. If you live in a zone that has a longer summer, sowing seeds directly into the ground is likely what you’ll do. But, for those of us that live in shorter, cooler zones… we’ll need to start the seeds indoors and transplant to the garden in the spring. Plant the seeds – either outdoors or in a seedling nursery pot – 1/4 inch deep and keep it well watered, but not soggy. Ensure the pots are in a warm area if you plan to start indoors. Once your basil has popped out of the ground and is growing – it’ll need 6-8 hours of sunlight. Make sure the outdoor spot chosen for your basil is full sun and they are spaced 12 inches apart. Ensure your basil gets watered frequently.

How to Harvest Basil

When learning how to grow basil, it’s essential to maintain its growth by promptly removing any flowers that begin to pop out of the top of the plant. This action redirects the plant’s energy towards leaf production and promotes branching. Once your basil plant reaches around 6 inches in height, you can start pinching off the top portions of these branches to further encourage branching. You can bring in the parts you pinched off and use them as you wish. Plus, pinching off will encourage a bushier, healthier plant.

Let me know your basil success stories in the comments! Happy Gardening!

The post How To Grow Basil appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

Growing your own food in today’s society holds profound importance, offering a multitude of benefits that extend far beyond mere sustenance. In an era marked by environmental concerns, health consciousness, and economic fluctuations, cultivating your own produce emerges as a practical and rewarding endeavor. Here are some key reasons why growing food and herbs in your backyard is significant in contemporary society:

1. Food Security: With uncertainties surrounding global food supply chains due to factors such as climate change, political instability, and pandemics, cultivating your own food provides a sense of security. By reducing reliance on external sources, individuals and communities can safeguard themselves against potential disruptions in food distribution.
2. Nutritional Quality: Homegrown produce often boasts superior nutritional quality compared to commercially grown counterparts. The ability to control soil quality, avoid harmful pesticides, and harvest at peak ripeness ensures that fruits, vegetables, and herbs are rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, promoting optimal health and well-being.
3. Environmental Sustainability: Industrial agriculture contributes significantly to environmental degradation through deforestation, water pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions. By adopting sustainable gardening practices such as composting, rainwater harvesting, and organic cultivation techniques, home gardeners can minimize their ecological footprint and contribute to preserving biodiversity and mitigating climate change.
4. Cost Savings: While the initial investment in gardening equipment and seeds may seem daunting, growing your own food can lead to substantial long-term savings. By eliminating the markup associated with retail prices and reducing grocery bills, individuals can enjoy fresh, organic produce at a fraction of the cost.
5. Connection to Nature: Engaging in gardening fosters a deeper connection to the natural world, allowing individuals to reconnect with the rhythms of the seasons and gain a profound appreciation for the interconnectedness of all living beings. Tending to plants offers therapeutic benefits, reducing stress levels, and promoting mindfulness.
6. Community Building: Gardening has the power to bring people together, fostering a sense of community spirit and camaraderie. Community gardens, in particular, serve as hubs for social interaction, knowledge sharing, and collective empowerment, transcending cultural and socioeconomic barriers.
7. Self-Sufficiency: Growing your own food cultivates a sense of self-sufficiency and resilience, empowering individuals to take control of their food production and consumption. This autonomy extends beyond the realm of food security, influencing lifestyle choices and fostering a mindset of resourcefulness and independence.
8. Cultural Preservation: Many heirloom varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs are at risk of extinction due to the homogenization of agricultural practices. By growing heritage plants, individuals contribute to the preservation of cultural diversity and culinary traditions, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy the rich tapestry of flavors and textures that define regional cuisines.

No One is an Expert

Now, I understand that there are people out there with wishes to grow their very own produce but don’t have the knowledge to start. No one knows everything – that is a fact. All of my friends come to me because they think I am the garden expert but that is simply inaccurate. I have loads of experience, yes. But I still run into road blocks or turn to my library of books multiple times throughout the growing season. In this post, I will share with you all of the books that I recommend to keep on hand for your own gardening journey! I prefer books and note pads because if our world ever goes to crap and we have no access to the internet – we have the resources to turn to!

Where to Start?

Starting with quality seeds is always step one. Seeds Now has hundreds of quality seed varieties to choose from. You can check the seeds out here. They also have resource packages – perfect for the avid learners – that you can view here.

Gardening Connects us to Nature

Living simply and sustainably is like finding the ultimate balance in life, you know? It’s about stripping away the excess and focusing on what truly matters – our connection to each other and to the world around us. When we simplify, we create space for joy and creativity. And when we live sustainably, we become stewards of the earth. It’s a beautiful dance between simplicity and sustainability, where every mindful choice we make ripples outwards, creating a brighter, more harmonious world. So let’s embrace the beauty of simplicity and sustainability, and let our lives become a shining example of love and stewardship for all.

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The Best Books About Vegetable Gardening:

The Best Books About Herbal Gardens:

Learning to garden is all about trial and error, learning what works and what doesn’t, and learning along the way. A helpful tip I have is to log everything. I started out with a notebook and each seed variety I planted had its own page. I would write down planting dates, how many germinated, how many plants died, any pests I saw, what fertilizer I did, how much they were watered, big rain events, hot days, and harvest dates & quality. This may be a bit overboard, and is completely optional but I found it extremely helpful when I was trouble shooting or trying to improve from the year prior. Today I use a proper gardening planner from Amazon:

Some day I would like to make my own garden planner but for now – I’ll use what works for me!

Learn From a Homesteader

The internet is full of people that want to share their experiences with others. One that stands out is Teri at Homestead Honey. She offers e-books and online coaching packages about all things homestead, including a winter gardening guide. Clink the links below to check them out!

Guide to Fall Gardening from Homestead Honey: Get it here!

Remember, no one decides to try something new and becomes an expert overnight. These books aren’t only for beginners – you’re never too experienced to learn more. I reference many of my gardening books throughout the year and I’ve been gardening pretty well my whole life. I can’t wait to pass my love for growing food and all of my books down to my children or grandchildren some day! Maybe you wish to do the same.

Happy Planting!!

The post Growing Food: The Best Books & Resources appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

1. Pollination: Bees are exceptional pollinators, transferring pollen from the male parts (anthers) of a flower to the female parts (stigma), facilitating fertilization and seed production. This process is essential for the reproduction of various plants, ensuring the growth of fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Approximately one-third of the world’s food crops depend on pollinators like bees.
2. Biodiversity: Attracting bees to your garden can contribute to increased biodiversity. Different species of bees have specific preferences for certain types of flowers, and by providing a variety of flowering plants, you can support a diverse range of bee species. This biodiversity is not only aesthetically pleasing but also strengthens the overall resilience of the ecosystem.
3. Increased Crop Yields: For farmers and gardeners, the presence of bees can significantly boost crop yields. Crops such as fruits, vegetables, and nuts often benefit from bee pollination, leading to more abundant and healthier harvests. This, in turn, helps support food security and contributes to a more sustainable agricultural system.

There is no wrong answer when it comes to planting flowers in your garden or even on pots sitting on your deck, but there are specific species of flowers that are bee magnets. Keep on reading to learn more, or don’t, but I hope you do.

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Bee Balm

I absolutely love bee balm. They can spready quite aggressively, so take note of where you plant them. Bee balm is a perennial if it’s taken care of properly in preparation for the winter. Don’t be too concerned about that though, just cut the stems back and mulch around the base for insulation in the fall. I have bee balm that comes back year after year – and I forget about them sometimes. When first introducing bee balm, also known as ‘wild bergamot’, ensure that the seeds are started indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost to increase transplant success. Bee balm is extremely medicinal and can be added to teas and salves, which is why bee balm is in my top favorites.

Borage

Borage is an annual plant that drops its seeds so I’ll likely germinate year after year. It’s cucumber scented plant that attracts bees and other pollinators to the garden, it’s even said to deter tomato hornworms! Borage is edible and is commonly added to salads, water, soups and dips for added cucumber flavor. Though, this dazzling plant should not be a major part of your diet, and you should not eat it in large quantities. It contains small amounts of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, and frequently eating large quantities can lead to stomach upset. But they smell amazing, attract pollinators, and are a perfect addition to the garden! Find some borage seeds & resources here.

Coneflower

Coneflowers, also known as Echinacea, are a popular garden flower for a good reason. They are an easy to grow perennial flower and they’ll bloom all summer long. They come in a wide range of colors, they are edible and (my favorite part) they have medicinal properties. Its recommended to dead head the flowers but in my experience, Coneflowers are low maintenance and have a strong bloom throughout the summer – even without pruning. Find coneflower seeds here!

Sunflower

Who doesn’t love a gorgeous sunflower? In my garden, I love to plant a big wall of all different kinds of sunflowers as a photo backdrop – mainly for my dog! Sunflower seeds are easy to come by and easy to grow, just pop ’em in the ground according to the package instructions after the danger of last frost has passed. Sunflower seeds are some of the easiest to harvest, so you can have sunflowers year after year. Once they bloom, sit back and watch and the bees and butterflies come and go. The average supermarket will carry sunflower seeds but if you’re looking for more and better quality options… check out these sunflower seed options.

Zinnia

Zinnias are an easy to grow annual and are available in explosions of colors. The beautiful blooms will last almost all summer, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds with their array of colors. They enjoy full sun and well draining soil. Plus, they’ll grow in almost any zone. This easy going pollinator friendly flower is a win-win.

Lavender

Lavender is a perennial herb. It’s a perfect addition to any garden because of how versatile is it. Not only will it attract bees and butterflies, lavender is a culinary herb. The buds can be used in baking, skincare, teas etc. I love a good lavender lemon tea! I add a cheesecloth bag bull of buds to my pajama drawer to pass its sweet aroma over to my clothes. I would recommend buying a healthy plant from a nursery and transplanting it according to the directions given with the plant. I consider myself an experienced gardener and it took me years to finally get a successful plant from seed.

Joe Pye Weed

Joe Pye Weed is a tall flower, perfect for the backrow in the pollinator garden. Joe Pye Weed is a good flower to plant in low lying areas in your garden as it can tolerate high moisture soils. The sweet vanilla scent and pollen rich clusters of flowers attract pollinators of all kinds, butterflies especially. These flowers typically bloom late in the summer or early in the fall so they’re not the best early season option. They are easy to grow from seed – so grab some seeds and get planting!

You can also hang cute little pollinator shelters near your garden to encourage a healthy population around your garden. This isn’t necessary by any means but I think it’s such a neat idea. You can get up close and personal with our pollinator friends. Check them out:

There are thousands of flower species that you can plant in your garden, and most of them will attract pollinators. This consists of my favorites and the flowers that I grow the most of. I love sitting around in the garden watching the birds, bees, and beautiful butterflies come and go. If you’re on the hunt for seeds and and seed starting resources – I highly recommend Seeds Now. I know from experience that some uncommon seeds can be hard to find.

By planting flowers that encourage bees to come around, offering space for habitat, and limiting harmful chemicals and fertilizers, we can provide a safe oasis for our winged friends. Remember… no pollinators leads to no crops, which leads to no food.

Happy Gardening!!

The post Planting a Pollinator Garden appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

There’s something so therapeutic about sticking a seed in the ground and watching it transform into a living, breathing entity. To then harvest it and turn it into food and resources for yourself and your family is undeniably one of the best feelings in the world. Gardening is incredibly easy once you have a few seasons under your belt. Below are the easiest plants to grow for a beginner garden!

For me, my garden is not only a resource for my family and me; it’s also a stress relief. Forget meditation apps; go pluck weeds and water your growing plants. There’s this zen-like calmness when I’m surrounded by plants. I don’t think I could ever live in a world where I couldn’t plant a garden. Some days I feel like everyone should be out there planting gardens, but we’re all different and have different hobbies, I guess. Really, though, who wouldn’t want to have a mini-produce section right outside their door for a fraction of the cost of a grocery store?!

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But here’s the real deal – it’s not just about ‘planting a garden.’ It’s about connecting with nature and growing your own little ecosystem. You become buddies with bees, your tomatoes’ biggest supporter, and suddenly, you’re part of this whole ecosystem that’s been doing its thing long before you showed up. So, why garden? Because it’s good for your mental and physical health, you can save money, feed yourself and your family real organic food, and it makes you a card-carrying member of Team Earth. It’s not a hobby; it’s a lifestyle, and it’s pretty darn awesome. Do I sound like a nerd yet? Maybe an old lady?

A great garden starts with the seed. Always make sure you research quality seeds. Seeds Now offers a huge range of diverse, quality seeds at a great price.

#1 LETTUCE

Lettuce is like the Usain Bolt of the veggie world. It sprouts up faster than you can say “salad,” which means you get that satisfying “I grew this” feeling in record time. Lettuce can be grown directly in the ground, in pots, or even indoors near a windowsill. Lettuce is fairly low maintenance, so it’s perfect for beginners! Sow seeds directly in the garden according to package directions after the danger of frost has passed.

#2 ONIONS

Growing onions is pretty straightforward. Buy the ‘onion bulbs’ in the spring, stick them in the ground about 5-6 inches apart, water them, and watch them sprout! Onions can also be grown from seed, but I prefer the bulbs; they’re inexpensive and you just plop them right in the ground. These resilient and low-maintenance vegetables thrive in a variety of climates and soil conditions, making them one of the easiest crops to cultivate. They require well-drained soil, ample sunlight, and regular watering. One of the key advantages is their ability to withstand pest pressures and diseases, reducing the need for extensive care. As they mature, their green tops can be harvested for a continuous supply of fresh green onions, while the bulbs can be left in the ground until fully developed. Plus, if stored correctly, they will remain fresh for months into the winter!

#3 ZUCCHINI

I remember way back when I started my first solo garden, I planted a whole 50-foot row of zucchini. What a mistake that was hahah. With Zucchini, a few plants go a long way. I’d recommend 2-3 for a beginner gardener. Growing zucchini is like having a green thumb cheat code – it’s that easy! Seriously, even if you’ve never grown anything before, zucchinis are the perfect starting point. Just give them a sunny spot, some well-draining soil, and they’re good to go. You can either start them from seeds or grab some seedlings from the nursery; they’re not picky. But, plopping the seeds right into the garden is the easiest way to go! Water them, and boom – you’ll have zucchinis popping up like it’s their favorite party trick. The best part? Zucchinis are prolific producers, so get ready for a summer of harvesting these green beauties for salads, stir-fries, and maybe even some sneaky zucchini baking.

#4 CUCUMBERS

Everyone loves cucumbers, right? I love fresh cucumber sandwiches and making my famous dilly pickles. I grow quite a large number of cucumbers in my own garden, but if you’re just starting out… 2-3 plants will be plenty! These vegetables are well-suited for gardeners seeking a relatively low-maintenance addition to their crops. Selecting an adequately sunny location and preparing well-drained soil form the foundation of successful cucumber cultivation. Employing a trellis system or allowing them to sprawl both prove effective, offering flexibility in garden planning. Cucumbers are prolific producers; one can expect a bountiful harvest. Grab a pair of gloves because these guys can be prickly. Check out my in-depth post about growing cucumbers here.

#5 SUGAR SNAP PEAS

Growing sugar snap peas is like bringing a little piece of the farmer’s market to your backyard without breaking a sweat. Find them a spot with plenty of sun, give them some well-draining soil, and you’re pretty much set. These guys grow very well from seed, no use for starting them indoors. Peas don’t like to have ‘wet feet,’ so ensure the spot that they are placed isn’t prone to flooding or consistently wet soils. The cool thing is that sugar snap peas are climbers, so toss in a trellis, and they’ll happily do their thing, which saves space, too! Harvesting is always my favorite part – pluck the pods straight off the vine and munch away. You can add them to stir-fries, salads, and soups too! Peas are always a rewarding process.

#6 PEPPERS

Peppers are a seed to start indoors, but its so easy. See my other post about top plants to start indoors. Once you have the transplant in the ground (a good 12-20 inches apart) water them quite frequently and they’ll grow like crazy. Peppers are perfect for snacking, adding into stir-fries, salad, soups or anything your heart desires. I freeze a bunch to add to meals throughout the winter, I pickle some, and I make quite a bit of relish and salsa. Peppers don’t store for too long throughout the winter so it’s a good idea to look into ways to preserve your pepper harvest.

#7 TOMATOES

Growing tomatoes in your garden can be a satisfying and relatively straightforward endeavor. Tomatoes are recommended to start indoors and then transplanted into the garden after the danger of frost has passed. You’ll need to choose a sunny location with well-draining soil, as tomatoes thrive in sunlight and prefer to not sit in moisture 24/7. If the leaves on your tomato plant look wilted, it’s likely just thirsty! Proper spacing between plants promotes air circulation and helps prevent diseases. Providing consistent and deep watering, especially during the fruit set. It is also a good idea to support the tomatoes with stakes or cages as they mature. Regular pruning of excess foliage encourages better air circulation and redirects energy toward fruit production. With proper care and attention, your garden can yield a bountiful harvest of flavorful tomatoes, versatile for salads, sauces, and countless canning creations.

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#8 CORN

Corn thrives in full sunlight and prefers soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. Corn is a heavy feeder, so enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting; this is optional as I’ve planted them with no fertilizer and my corn is always bountiful! Consider planting in blocks rather than single rows to promote pollination, as corn is wind-pollinated. Proper spacing between plants is essential to prevent competition for nutrients. Plant corn seeds directly in the soil after the danger of frost has passed, as they prefer warm temperatures for germination. Provide consistent watering throughout the growing season, especially during the tasseling and silking stages. Harvest corn when the kernels are plump and milky by hand-twisting the ears. With attention to these details, your garden can yield a delicious harvest of sweet and crisp corn on the cob.

#9 GREEN/YELLOW BEANS

Beans are a plant that I can neglect and they still thrive, haha. Bush beans are also very heavy producers so you don’t need many plants. If you are growing a bush bean variety, ensure proper spacing according to the package to promote airflow and prevent disease. Beans are natural nitrogen fixers so they are super beneficial to the soil as well. Beans freeze fairly well for over the winter storage, plus you can pickle some, too!

#10 CARROTS

Growing carrots is pretty straightforward. Though there have been some years that I plant rows that pop up patchy, and I have yet to figure out why. I’m thinking that I had a bad seed batch, but who knows. I get my carrot seeds either from Vesey Seeds or T & T Seeds now and they haven’t given me any issues yet! Try to plant your carrot seeds in an area without too many large rocks in the soil – rocky soil can result in deformed and stunted carrots. Carrots do tend to take their sweet time popping out of the ground, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any action in the first week or two. Once carrots are established, it’s a good idea to thin them out to promote healthy, thick carrots.

Growing a garden is truly soul-healing – so don’t take it too seriously. If something doesn’t grow, just try again. I want everyone to know the feeling of a bountiful garden harvest that then turns into a beautiful meal on the table. Happy Growing!

The post 10 Beginner Garden Plants To Grow This Spring appeared first on Modern Homestead Haven.

I don’t know about you guys, but I get way too excited about my garden. I start quite a few of my garden plants indoors to try to promote an earlier harvest. I live in Central Canada so the earlier I can harvest, the better. Other than an earlier harvest there are numerous benefits to seed-sowing indoors.

1. It’s actually necessary for a number of different plants. Many warm season vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers, can’t be planted too early in the cool spring soil. Starting seeds indoors allows you to gain a few weeks of growing time for whichever plant you start. 
2. Starting seeds indoors is so much more affordable than buying established plants from the local greenhouse.
3. You can plant a much wider range of varieties. You can find seeds for plant varieties that you would never find in a six-pack at the local garden center!
4. You get piece of mind knowing exactly how your plants are raised from seed to harvest.
5. BONUS – you can plant extras and give them away as gifts to family and friends!

I personally use a mini indoor greenhouse and grow lights to grow all of my vegetables but I probably go a little overboard. Seeds can be started indoors and placed by a warm and sunny windowsill and still be successful! In my opinion, the best company you can buy seeds from is Seeds Now. Affordable, quality seeds every. single. time. Organic options, too!

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#1 Tomatoes

There’s nothing quite like a fresh garden tomato. Tomatoes are likely my top grown plant in my garden – you can do so much with them. From salsa, to fresh tomato sandwiches, the possibilities never end with tomatoes. They are fairly simple to grow, aside from the need to start them inside prior to last frost.

While tomato plants are commonly available at the greenhouse ready for someone to take home and transplant, growing them from seed yourself offers a sense of accomplishment as well as the vast options between varieties and heritage.

Choose Your Seeds: Select tomato seeds from a reputable source. There are many varieties available, so choose ones that suit your taste preferences and growing conditions.

Gather Supplies: You’ll need seed starting trays or pots, sterile seed starting mix, a spray bottle for watering, and a warm, well-lit area for germination.

Fill Trays or Pots: Fill your seed trays or pots with the seed starting mix, leaving about ¼ inch of space below the rim.

Plant Seeds: Plant 2-3 seeds per pot or cell, placing them about ¼ to ½ inch deep into the soil. Cover the seeds lightly with soil.

Water: Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil evenly. Make sure the soil is damp but not waterlogged.

Provide Warmth and Light: Place the trays or pots in a warm location, ideally between 70-80°F (21-27°C). You can use a seedling heat mat to provide bottom heat, which can promote germination. Additionally, provide 14-16 hours of light per day using grow lights or placing the pots near a sunny window.

Maintain Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Use the spray bottle to water gently as needed, ensuring the soil doesn’t dry out.

Thin Seedlings: Once the seedlings emerge and develop their first set of true leaves, thin them out by removing the weaker seedlings, leaving only the strongest one per pot.

Transplant: When the seedlings have grown several inches tall and have developed a few sets of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into larger pots or into the garden, after the last frost date in your area.

Harden Off: Before transplanting them outdoors, gradually expose the seedlings to outdoor conditions over the course of a week to acclimate them to the sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations. Start with a few hours of outdoor exposure and gradually increase the time each day.

#2 Broccoli

Broccoli is another one of my favorites, especially fresh. In my experience, Broccoli and Cauliflower are a little more challenging to grow than tomatoes – especially when its a bad year for flea beetles.

Select Your Seeds: Choose broccoli seeds from a reliable source. Look for varieties that are well-suited to your climate and growing conditions.

Prepare Containers: Use small pots or seed trays filled with a seed starting mix. Ensure the containers have drainage holes at the bottom to prevent waterlogging.

Plant the Seeds: Plant broccoli seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep in the soil, spacing them a few inches apart. You can plant multiple seeds per pot and thin them out later.

Water Gently: Use a spray bottle or a gentle stream of water to moisten the soil thoroughly after planting. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged throughout the germination process.

Provide Warmth and Light: Broccoli seeds germinate best in temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C). Place the containers in a warm location, such as near a sunny window or under grow lights. Ensure they receive 12-16 hours of light per day.

Thin Seedlings: Once the seedlings emerge and develop their first set of true leaves, thin them out by removing the weaker seedlings, leaving only the healthiest ones per pot.

Fertilize: After the seedlings have established their second set of true leaves, you can start fertilizing them with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply the fertilizer every 2-3 weeks according to the package instructions.

Transplant: When the seedlings have grown to about 3-4 inches tall and have developed several sets of true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into larger pots or into the garden. Ensure the outdoor soil has warmed up and there’s no risk of frost before transplanting.

Harden Off: Before transplanting them outdoors, gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over the course of a week. Start by placing them outdoors in a sheltered location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the time and exposure to sunlight and wind.

Planting Outdoors: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil for transplanting your broccoli seedlings. Space them according to the recommended spacing for the variety you’re growing, typically 18-24 inches apart.

Learn more about Broccoli.

#3 Peppers

There are so many varieties of peppers to grow, sometimes it’s overwhelming. I love to plant 3-4 different spicy varieties, bell peppers, and a few sweet peppers for pickling. Peppers are the most laid back, easy to grow and transplant vegetable that I start inside. I like to start peppers indoors 10-12 weeks before transplanting them outdoors.

Choose Your Seeds: Select pepper seeds from a reputable source. There are many varieties available, including sweet peppers and hot peppers, so choose based on your taste preferences and the growing conditions in your area.

Prepare Containers: Use small pots or seed trays filled with a sterile seed starting mix. Ensure the containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

Plant the Seeds: Plant pepper seeds about ¼ inch deep in the soil, spacing them a few inches apart. You can plant multiple seeds per pot and thin them out later.

Water Gently: Use a spray bottle or a gentle stream of water to moisten the soil thoroughly after planting. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged throughout the germination process.

Provide Warmth and Light: Peppers require warm temperatures to germinate, ideally between 70-85°F (21-29°C). Place the containers in a warm location, such as near a sunny window or under grow lights. Ensure they receive 12-16 hours of light per day.

Thin Seedlings: Once the pepper seedlings emerge and develop their first set of true leaves, thin them out by removing the weaker seedlings, leaving only the healthiest ones per pot.

Fertilize: After the seedlings have established their second set of true leaves, you can start fertilizing them with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply the fertilizer every 2-3 weeks according to the package instructions.

Transplant: When the pepper seedlings have grown to about 3-4 inches tall and have developed several sets of true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into larger pots or into the garden. Ensure the outdoor soil has warmed up and there’s no risk of frost before transplanting.

Harden Off: Before transplanting them outdoors, gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over the course of a week. Start by placing them outdoors in a sheltered location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the time and exposure to sunlight and wind.

Planting Outdoors: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil for transplanting your pepper seedlings. Space them according to the recommended spacing for the variety you’re growing, typically 18 inches apart.

#4 Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a cultivar of wild cabbage, just like broccoli, brussels sprouts, kale, collards and cabbage. Also referred to as brassicas, they are a cold-hardy group of vegetables. I like to start my cauliflower indoors about 8 weeks ahead of time.  

Choose Your Seeds: Select cauliflower seeds from a reputable source. There are various varieties available, including traditional white cauliflower, as well as purple, green, and orange varieties. Choose seeds that are suitable for your growing conditions and preferences.

Prepare Containers: Use small pots or seed trays filled with a sterile seed starting mix. Make sure the containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

Plant the Seeds: Plant cauliflower seeds about ¼ inch deep in the soil, spacing them a few inches apart. You can plant multiple seeds per pot and thin them out later.

Water Gently: Moisten the soil thoroughly after planting using a spray bottle or a gentle stream of water. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged throughout the germination process.

Provide Warmth and Light: Cauliflower seeds germinate best in temperatures between 60-75°F (16-24°C). Place the containers in a warm location, such as near a sunny window or under grow lights. Ensure they receive 12-16 hours of light per day.

Thin Seedlings: Once the cauliflower seedlings emerge and develop their first set of true leaves, thin them out by removing the weaker seedlings, leaving only the healthiest ones per pot.

Fertilize: After the seedlings have established their second set of true leaves, you can start fertilizing them with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply the fertilizer every 2-3 weeks according to the package instructions.

Transplant: When the cauliflower seedlings have grown to about 3-4 inches tall and have developed several sets of true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into larger pots or into the garden. Ensure the outdoor soil has warmed up and there’s no risk of frost before transplanting.

Harden Off: Before transplanting them outdoors, gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over the course of a week. Start by placing them outdoors in a sheltered location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the time and exposure to sunlight and wind.

Planting Outdoors: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil for transplanting your cauliflower seedlings. Space them according to the recommended spacing for the variety you’re growing, typically 24 inches apart.

Learn more about growing cauliflower

#5 Herbs

I love growing herbs. I have jars upon jars of dried herbs in my home at all times of the year. Consult the seed package for each individual herbs seeding requirements. Many common herbs are very similar in the way they grow and many are slow germinating which is why I like to start mine indoors 12 weeks before they head to the garden!

Select Your Seeds: Choose herb seeds from a reputable source. Common herbs grown indoors include basil, cilantro, parsley, chives, thyme, oregano, and mint. Select seeds that are fresh and suited to indoor growing conditions. 

Prepare Containers: Use small pots, seed trays, or shallow containers filled with a well-draining potting mix or seed starting mix. Ensure the containers have drainage holes at the bottom to prevent waterlogging.

Plant the Seeds: Sow herb seeds according to the recommended depth provided on the seed packet. In general, herb seeds are sown shallowly, usually about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Plant multiple seeds per pot or cell to increase the chances of germination.

Water Gently: Moisten the soil evenly after planting using a spray bottle or a gentle stream of water. Avoid saturating the soil, as excessive moisture can lead to damping-off disease. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged throughout the germination process.

Provide Warmth and Light: Most herb seeds germinate best in warm temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C). Place the containers in a warm location, such as near a sunny window or under grow lights. Ensure they receive 12-16 hours of light per day.

Thin Seedlings: Once the herb seedlings emerge and develop their first set of true leaves, thin them out by removing the weaker seedlings, leaving only the healthiest ones per pot or cell.

Fertilize: After the herb seedlings have established their second set of true leaves, you can start fertilizing them with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply the fertilizer every 2-3 weeks according to the package instructions.

Transplant (Optional): Depending on the size of the containers and the growth rate of the herbs, you may need to transplant the seedlings into larger pots as they grow. Choose pots with good drainage and fill them with a well-draining potting mix. Alternatively, harden them off outdoors for a few weeks and transplant them into the garden!

Harvest: Once the herb plants have grown to a sufficient size, you can start harvesting leaves as needed. Use clean scissors or pinch off individual leaves to encourage continued growth.

Maintenance: Regularly check the soil moisture level and water the herbs when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Rotate the pots regularly to ensure even growth and expose all sides of the plants to light.

**Any herbs in the mint family need to have 15-20 inches of growing space – they spread like crazy.

• How to grow basil
• How to grow wild bergamot

Equipment To Use While Starting Seeds Indoors:

• Quality Nursery Pots – I say quality because if they don’t crack or break during transplant, I’ll re-use them for as long as I can. Click here for your basic black pots or if you’re looking for the greenhouse effect without the greenhouse, click here.
• Indoor Greenhouse – It doesn’t have to be anything expensive or fancy at all. I bought mine for less than $100CAD during a Black Friday sale. Click here for some affordable mini greenhouse options.
• Indoor Grow Lights – these are essential if you want to start seeds indoors but don’t have a lot of light. I’ve bought grow lights from Amazon and they are some of the best. Click here for a list of grow lights.
• Quality Soil – it doesn’t have to be anything fancy. I usually use Miracle Gro branded soil as its affordable and does the job.

Don’t get discouraged if some seeds don’t germinate, or you have a few plants that die off somewhere along the line. That’s all part of the gardening game. I’ve been gardening with my great grandma since I could walk and on my own for years and years now, and I still have to go through trial and error. Have fun with it!

HAPPY PLANTING!!

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